Have you guys ever ran into this. the alignment shop does not want to do the toe in on the rear. all the shims are new well every thing is new. they said that they would show me what it needs an let me take it back an for me to do the shims.
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Re: alignment
Yes, I have run into that. I don't know what year you have but this can be an issue with C2's. The alignment shops don't want to go to all of the extra work in dealing with the closed shims. If they will do it they always want to drill a hole in your frame and use the more modern open style shim. This is the reason I gave up on alignment shops and just bought a toe gauge and a camber/castor gauge and just started doing it myself. -
Re: alignment
Don where did you get your gauge?Comment
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Re: alignment
I got my alignment equipment from Racer Parts Wholesale (see link). I have a Fastrax camber/caster gauge and longacre toe gauge. But I just noticed in the latest Eastwood catalogue that they are now carrying the fastrax camber/caster gauges as well. Eastwood has carried toe gauges for some time too.
Good luck!
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Re: alignment
I just use a $20 inclinometer (that you can buy at any decent hardware/tool store including Sears) and a good carpenter's tape measure. You also need a flat surface and most garage slabs are sufficiently level to qualify as a "surface plate". The alignment process is lengthly and tiring, but I've always gotten the results I wanted, and I've been doing my own for over 20 years.
I had one car checked on an alignment machine after I did my own alignment and the guy said he couldn't have gotten it any closer to the specs I wanted.
Camber and toe-in can be measured directly. Caster is the difference in camber readings with steering at full left and right lock. Rear toe on Midyears is tricky to measure because it must be equally divided between both sides. Carfully measuring the centerline of the frame and then running a plumb line will provide a centerline reference, and you measure rear toe on each side using the plumb line as the measuring datum.
DukeComment
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Re: alignment
You should do a driveline article on how you get it done. I would be interested and I am sure I could do the job if I had a little more understanding. If you have a source for doing it yourself, let me know. Thanks, TerryComment
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Re: alignment
I picked up the technique from an old Herb Adams catalog that I borrowed from a friend about 20 years ago.
You're right, an article in The Corvette Restorer would be a good idea, but I'm about two articles behind, and my articles always stress Terry M's production cost budget because they are so long.
DukeComment
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alignment article
Duke,
Don't worry about the budget stress. Your articles are always well received by the members, and very well written.
I'm sure a DIY alignment article would be welcomed. However, explaining the basics of wheel alignment -- even aside from the details of Corvette wheel alignment -- could require an entire book. Come to think of it, books have been written on the subject of wheel aligment. Now all we need is the story on Corvette wheel alignment.TerryComment
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Re: alignment
I noticed that some hiperf places sell tools for doing it but I am uncertain it is worth the money when you do yours with a simple tool and have satisfactory results. I use to watch a circle track racer guy align his cars at home with a couple of sticks and a tape measure. Things seemed to work out pretty good for him.
Are the bolts on the A-arm pivots involved in the alignment? Just wondering.
Thanks, TerryComment
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Re: alignment article
There are actually several good articles on DIY corvette alignments on Corvettefaq.com. It can be time consuming but definitely a project the hobbyist can do in the garage. If I can do it anybody can!
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Re: alignment
To change shims you loosen the nuts that secure the upper A-arm cross shaft to the frame studs. The bushing bolts are not involved.
The basic alignment procedure is in all applicable shop manuals and chassis service manuals.
DukeComment
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Re: alignment
I might have to dig into it and see what happens. If I align the car with all new suspension, should I expect to have to do it again after the car has settled a bit. TerryComment
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Re: alignment
Tough to say. When new I think they held alignment pretty well. As the rear sunk due to compressed spring link bushings, camber would increase in the negative direction.
DukeComment
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Re: alignment
I will do some research on my own and see what I come up with. It sounds like I will have to invest in a tool to measure degrees. I hear they make a digital one. I will check on it. I will read my service manual also. I remember it has a good bit of info in it on the subjest. It would be nice to see it go down the road nice. I will probably contact you or look up the recommedations for settings with regards to radial tires on my 68. Thanks, TerryComment
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