Merry Christmas everyone. I have removed the lower rubber seal and vacuum relief on my original 307 radiator cap and I wanted to ask about plating the cap. What finish is on the original cap and can this part be plated with the aluminum rivet still installed? I don't want to remove the rivet as I'm not sure if they are reproduced. I plan on using a new RC26 cap for doner parts to replace the seal and gasket and my local chevy dealer tells me they are about $20.00 and he will have to order it but the price sounds high to me. Thanks in advance for your help, Timothy Barbieri
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Re: 1963 corvette radiator cap
Timothy,
About 30 years ago, I did the exact same thing to an original #307 cap. When it came back from the plater, it was in several different pieces. Seems the acid ate away the small crimped section on the top of the aluminum center post and the spring pressure caused the cap to come apart during the plating process. I learned that the acid works a lot faster on aluminum than it does on the steel main section. Hopefully, someone will have a better way of doing this than the method I used.
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Re: 1963 corvette radiator cap
I would check with John Pirkle. He restores radiator caps along with alternators and starters. He may be able to restore yoursDick WhittingtonComment
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Re: 1963 corvette radiator cap
Thanks for responding Michael and Dick. I called John Pirkle a couple weeks ago and he said that because of the liability issues caused by corrosion around the area under the top of the cap and the fact that the top may pop off he does not restore radiator caps anymore. I wonder how a cap will turn out if bead blasted and replated with the rivet in place? I have intentions of installing a new GM RC26 for use but I thought I might try to restore my original because it looks OK except for the groove in the rubber seal on the bottom.Comment
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Re: 1963 corvette radiator cap
Sounds like John has had some experience with this problem also. Not a pretty pile of parts when it comes back from the plater.
The cap that I sent out was from a very low mileage car and had no corrosion that I was aware of so I suspect the problem is just the acid in the plating process (if there is any) eating away at the aluminum a lot faster than steel.
Beading a cap, or any part, usually results in a frosty look after it comes back from the plater. I would try some other method of cleaning the surface if possible or at least make sure the glass bead is at low pressure and as fine as possible. That's a difficult part to restore.Comment
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Re: 1963 corvette radiator cap
Timothy - The original 307 and RC-26 radiator caps had an large aluminum (Al) washer directly under the cap that afforded some tension when the cap was installed followed by a fiber washer or gasket that went against the expansion tank neck. Anyway, if that large Al washer is intact and not corroded away then the chances are that the cap in general is in good condition for being 40+ years old. If the Al washer is corroded away, odds are that the under side of the cap is in poor condition and you will end up having a handful of internal parts if send it out for replating that "all the king's horses and all the king's men" and posibly "The General" can't put back together again. If the large Al washer is intact , I'd just replace the lower seal from the new donor cap and leave well enough alone. PeteComment
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Re: 1963 corvette radiator cap
I've restored several caps. I dip in muratic acid(removes rust quickly), neutralize the acid with baking soda. Using the Eastwood zink plate kit I plate it . No big deal! The aluminum will not be affected if you dip in acid for short time. The cad/ zink plating doesn't mess with the aluminum.Comment
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