B-Pillar cover and door gaps

[Scott Marzahl]

I took Tracy's advise and used village photos. Soory for the repeat post but I think I have the photo think worked out now. What I am finding is that I can't get even door gaps from left to right. Drivers door is adjusted full forward and I have an 1/8" gap. Passenger door is adjusted full rearward and I have about a 3/8" gap. Is this a common thing with C2's? There isn't much adjustment with the B-pillar cover because the B-pillar is stationary. You can twist it in and out a little bit to meet up with the rear quarter panels.
Any ideas?

[Scott Marzahl]

Lets try this link again.

Hope it works this time

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1162896

[Scott Marzahl]

OK, the silence is killing me here

Just curious if this type of door fit is fairly common. Do you need to build up the edge of the door or something on these cars for a "perfect" fit?

[Geoff C.]

[Scott Marzahl]

Re: OK, the silence is killing me here

Thanks Doc, I think I do have all the rivets replaced in those pillars and luggage stop, at least all the holes are filled I built the body dolly from 2x2 steel using measurements from the frame and the birdcage fits very nicely on it. I will however put the body on the frame when I install the new front end.

The new quarter panels come only so far forward into the door jam. That passenger door jam had a bunch of factory filler in it, I am assuming to make it fit better. I can see some rough grinder marks on the bottom of the passenger door to give it some clearance to the rocker panel and you're right, its a very crude job at that.

[Roy B.]

Re: Lets try this link again.

My brother law Dan who has done many, many body off restored Corvettes and repairs showed me the best way to close body gaps is to extend the "body" and NOT the doors, hood, truck,lid or any other part. Reason is that they are to thin and get the most stress when closing. Laying in cloth or fibber packing is easy and stronger having no movement that other parts do. I true the parts if needed , then extend the body to fit the parts.

[Scott Marzahl]

Re: Lets try this link again.

Thanks Roy, that makes sense, probably why there was a lot of filler in that door jam to "extend the quarter panel" if you will and close the gap up. The reset of the new quarter panel fit is great.

[Bill W.]

Re: Lets try this link again.

Bolt the body on the frame you are using. Bolt the hard top on. Make sure the doors open and close correctly on the strikers & the vent & glass fit the opening. Fit the doors to the orig. qt. pnls. if poss. If not fit the qt pnls fron the rear to the door area. WITH the bumpers bolted on. Fit the front end from front to the doors with the hood in place.You gotta make it all fit anyway ,its much better to do it before paint. Bill

[Scott Marzahl]

The biggest problem..

The biggest problem with repro fiberglass, at least the pillar covers, is that they are so much thicker and perhaps even warped a bit and don't flex like the original parts did. The quarters fit perfect to the doors and the cover.

[Scott Marzahl]

Doc, I measured the doors and...

I measured the difference between the two doors at the mid line, the passenger door is 1/4" different than the drivers at that point! Grind to fit hey.