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Does anyone know if there is a repair section available for the bottom of the convertible deck hinge where the spring attaches. Mine are pretty rusted away, I can probably fab one up but if they are commercially availably I would rather just buy them. I included a photo in my album link.
Scott, I just removed my hinges also and found rust. I media blasted them and fortunately there is enough metal to hold the spring. I did look and did not find any bottom pieces available, just complete repro hinges.
Fabricating your own would be the most economical.
Also, you need to find the source of the water. Check the drain holes at the top of the rear deck and ensure they are open all the way to the opening over the rear tires. Over time the openings may have become full of leaves and junk.
Also, check the rivets on the metal upper support bar. If they have loosed over time then you need to use a sealant to ensure water does not leak into the interior in the future.
In my case, when I removed the two top bolts from the hinges last week, the nut plates fell off. I am still working on a fix for that mess.
You pictures are too large to view complete. One must scrool up and down, plus left and right to view the entire subject. Use 800 x 600 or 640 x 480. Microscopic detail at high resolution is not necessary, except when examining stem whackers.
If you have Adobe's Photoshop software for your post-picture processing (the hands down choice among professional/press photographers), converting your pictures to internet-ready format is a 'snap'....
The 'crop' tool in Photoshop allows you to define X by Y dimensions in BOTH inches/centimeters as well as pixel count AND lets you define resolution density at the same time. For typical internet display situations where MANY viewers can be expected to connect/view your picture via dial-up modem links, do them a favor.
Set the crop tool to agree with a conventional VGA display screen like Geoff says (800 x 600 pixels) and REDUCE the resolution of the picture from your camera's GARGANTUAN native resolution to 72 pixels/inch. Go crop your original picture and save it with a different file name to keep it separate from your original, full size/full resolution picture. Post the edited/cropped version of the picture on your server and you'll get a LOT more viewer participation/response. You're not discriminating now in favor of those who have broadband links and the 'little guys' with dial-up links won't grow a beard waiting for your picture to display!
Also, you safeguard your original picture from those who might attempt to download it and use it for purposes other than your original intention (a conversational clarification tool). YOU retain/control ownership of the full original picture this way....
I shoot everything at 640x480 (except my magazine work, which requires ultra high-res), and never have to re-size anything; 640x480 posts on any board anywhere without requiring any scrolling at all. If you need to work images and don't feel like shelling out $600 for PhotoShop, most of the tools you need are included in Microsoft Photo Editor, which is part of the Microsoft Office package, or I use a slick program called CompuShow32 from Canyon State Systems in Sedona, Arizona - only $35.00, incredible functionality, and it comes on a floppy!
I tried the shareware version, pretty good. I've been using PhotoImpression which came with my wife's Canon. I think most of the photoediting programs which come with the cameras, have the resize feature.
I always shoot them full resolution in case of future publishing. I resize them to 640 x 480 and rename to post on the image site to reduce the file size and load faster. I've using ImageShack, which is free if you just do them one at a time. They have a whole collection of my posted photos, and its real easy to just copy and paste the URL to the post.
Jerry Fuccillo
#42179
Jerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968
It may be too late for you, but I bought replacement bottom plates with the spring hooks from one of the vendors. I think it was Long Island. I drilled out the spot welds, and had a freind weld the new plates on through holes I drilled in them. A quick and safe fix to prevent flying springs.
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