C1 Body Dolly...

[61_Vetter]

I'm new to this, so please bear with me...
I'm in the process of doing a frame off on my '61...
This is the first time I will have taken the body off a Vette (or any other car for that matter). As I understand it, when you pull the body, you should have a "dolly" built to set it onto. I've done a search, but am not finding any information on the specs for a body dolly.
Can someone help me get pointed in the right direction for some plans?

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

Thanks!
Mike

[Bud Landacre]

Re: C1 Body Dolly...

A fiend of mine is helping me with a body swap onmy 62. He has built a body dolly from 2" square steel tubing. The dolly is about 30" high and has studs welded in the tubing at points to match the rear two, center two and forward two body mount holes. The nose(forward of the firewall) is not supported and does'nt need to be. I think you could build the same setup from 2X4s if you want to, using lag studs at the mount points. We lifted the body using a 2 post lift with 4 lift points. The body was lifted at the rocker panels using a 1X4 to span the distance (front to rear) between the hoist lift pads. Worked like a charm.
Bud Landacre

[Chris H.]

Re: C1 Body Dolly...

I think in the NCRS publications for sale there is a book that explains how to build and use a dolly.

chris

[Larry P.]

Re: C1 Body Dolly...

I used 2x10's to make a square box. It was about 4' by 5' or so. Just simulate the width of the frame and stay inside the body. It needs to be high enough to keep the bottom of the doors from touching the floor. I would support the front and rear if it will be off for any length of time. If I did it again I would put casters on it.

I used four ratchet straps to the deck hinges and radiator support and attached to hooks in ceiling joists. With this method you can go slow and if needed do it alone. Most weight was already out.

I read somewhere that Noland Adams book has some dimensions for a support.
Larry

[Roy B.]

Re: C1 Body Dolly...

No matter how you lift the body , once you put the body on any thing or build a support ( support the rear area ) or the body will flecks causing stress at the rear door lower body area.
If your going to do any body fitting of the doors (gap) do it first before removing it also the soft top lid to center glove box.
Hood, trunk don't matter with body off.

[Steven J. Neel]

Re: C1 Body Dolly...

I have the parts list and the diagrams for building a dolly per Noland Adams. I can send through email if you want. I did do some revisions on this dolly to make it stronger

[Mike Bongiovanni]

Re: C1 Body Dolly...

I would very much appreciatte the email.
Thanks again for the help!

[Larry S.]

Re: C1 Body Dolly...

Mike
I was given the dimention to a very simple steel body dolly from a member here on this site John McGraw,Its made of 3" tubular 14 Gauge square stock.I just ordered my steel to the dimentions I needed and requested mitered corners, took it home welded it up,attached heavey duty low profile casters,I then took my 3" square stock and cut 3"x3" blocks drilled 1/2 hole in them and mounted these blocks to my corvettes body outer body mounts.and I also made one for the front a little larger,With the blocks on my car I then lowered the body onto the new body dolly,centered the car on the dolly and then tack welded the blocks in place.(it was easeyer for me to do that then to have to measure where the mounts should mount to the body and then to the dolly,

I chose metal over wood because I had planned on mounting my dolly to a rotisery to do some work on the bottom of the car.

ignore the rotisery,ignore the car trailer its on (I was dropping it off at the media blaster) And just look at the simplicity of the dolly.

Here is a picture of the car on the rotisery with a good shot of the simple body dolly

[Garry Barnes]

Re: C1 Body Dolly...

Mike,
If I am not mistaken, someone had a C1 body dolly for sale in the last issue of the Driveline. You might want to take a look and see if that is an easier way to go.
Garry

[Dennis A.]

Re: C1 Body Dolly...

Roy is right on...

Noland Adams has a book discussing the body lift and provides a blueprint for building body dolly's.

If the body is going to be off the frame for any duration of time, stress will change the door gaps, deck lid gaps and the number of body mounting shims required. Best use a dolly that supports both the front and rear. If you are going to paint on a dolly without these features, It is a good idea to remount the body to the frame after final painting as soon as possible, thus allowing the paint to cure without additional stresses. Also when the doors are being installed, best the frame is not sitting on jack stands, for the final drop off the stands makes about a 1/16 inch difference.

[John H.]

Re: C1 Body Dolly...

One of our Michigan Chapter members makes these body dollies from aluminum extrusions; light weight, strong, and disassemble easily after use or for shipping - give Tom Komendera a call at (248) 669-6560 for more info.

[Scott Marzahl]

Body Dollies

One thing to keep in mind IF you build it yourself, build it tall similar to the one in John's photo. I built my C2 dolly from 2X2 steel up high and it sure saves your back.