C3 Engine Removal - Update

[Jim Callan]

It's out ! Finally got back to it last weekend. I became a Grandpa the weekend before (twice) our daughter had twins, so was slowed down. Anyway ......
After removing the engine mount thru bolts and all of the bell housing bolts, I
used the hoist and floor jack to raise engine/tran about 3". I used a screw driver to "help" separate the two, and the engine was free.. just hanging there. Lifted over the D side fender and put on stand. I had to place the hoist on the D side, but really didn't have any problems.
As with most projects I do, they get off track, because I'm looking at this engine (350/270 HP) and thinking I should rebuild it while it's out. IT only has 90k miles but 0 miles in last 10 years and with my wife saying " you'll be sorry if you don't do it now ", I've decided to rebuild.

But I have questions:

Can someone recommend a 'rebuild kit' ? I'm going to assume that the bores won't stay std. I 'think' I want to get about 9.5 c/r and 'maybe' use a 'LT1!
cam. I'm NOT looking for a race engine, just a little more 'driving fun'.
I'm open to suggestions on rebuild kit, cam selection, machining etc.

FYI - the heads have already been done - camel hump, 64cc, 2.02/1.6, new springs, 3 angle valve job - bagged and ready to bolt on (except for paint).

I have power brakes, A/C, TH400, etc - want to keep it all.
I plan to use the stock exhaust manifolds with 2.5 pipes.
I want to use the stock Q-Jet carb, currently with a Eldebrock PERFORMER manifold, but I have the stock manifold.

I currently have an "old" Mallory Unilite ignition system but plan to install a new Pertronix system.

I don't want to change TQ converter, axle ratio etc, just want a bit more from this '71 350/270hp engine.

Thanks

Jim

[Jim Callan]

Re: C3 Engine Removal - Update

Almost forgot - can anyone recommend a mechine shop in the north Atlanta area ?

[Jim Callan]

Re: C3 Engine Removal - Update

Almost forgot - can anyone recommend a mechine shop in the north Atlanta area ?

[Mike Cobine]

Re: C3 Engine Removal - Update

Much of this you will need to discuss with your machine shop. They and you need to agree on most if not all. Otherwise, you won't be happy in the long run.

With an automatic, you can run more cam than most believe. This is because they forget what a torque convertor is - something that multiplies torque. So you can ignore the first 1000 and often 1500 RPM because any power made there isn't really helping the car since the TQ is either slipping or is running in the 2x mode.

Be sure the peak of the cam is above the shift points of the transmission. That is, if the transmission upshifts at 4500 when you have the foot mashed, then you want the cam to peak at least at 4500 or you will never upshift under load, like passing or climbing a hill. The second is annoying, the first deadly.

The L82 hyd or the LT1 solid either would make a nice engine and still be streetable.

Bore only what you need. Most will go automatically to 0.030 but 0.020 will give your engine an extra rebuild if that ever become necessary, and let's hope you or your grandkids are driving it engouh to actually need that extra rebuild about 20 or 30 years from now.

[Mike Cobine]

Re: C3 Engine Removal - Update

Much of this you will need to discuss with your machine shop. They and you need to agree on most if not all. Otherwise, you won't be happy in the long run.

With an automatic, you can run more cam than most believe. This is because they forget what a torque convertor is - something that multiplies torque. So you can ignore the first 1000 and often 1500 RPM because any power made there isn't really helping the car since the TQ is either slipping or is running in the 2x mode.

Be sure the peak of the cam is above the shift points of the transmission. That is, if the transmission upshifts at 4500 when you have the foot mashed, then you want the cam to peak at least at 4500 or you will never upshift under load, like passing or climbing a hill. The second is annoying, the first deadly.

The L82 hyd or the LT1 solid either would make a nice engine and still be streetable.

Bore only what you need. Most will go automatically to 0.030 but 0.020 will give your engine an extra rebuild if that ever become necessary, and let's hope you or your grandkids are driving it engouh to actually need that extra rebuild about 20 or 30 years from now.

[Jim T.]

Re: C3 Engine Removal - Update

Jim for a lot of driving fun you could just store the original engine and buy a GM 350/330 crate engine that comes with a warranty, the changing of heads by GM on this engine increased the hp from 300 to 330. The best part is already done, you have your wife's support. You could also could buy a ZZ4 crate motor short block and use your reworked heads. Rebuilding are engines can be expensive. I pulled my 70's 350/300 with over 100K and parked it in a corner of the garage to rest for awhile. Put a ZZ crate engine in its place. More HP, roller cam, and it runs great. I can always reinstall the removed engine to sell the car.

[Jim T.]

Re: C3 Engine Removal - Update

Jim for a lot of driving fun you could just store the original engine and buy a GM 350/330 crate engine that comes with a warranty, the changing of heads by GM on this engine increased the hp from 300 to 330. The best part is already done, you have your wife's support. You could also could buy a ZZ4 crate motor short block and use your reworked heads. Rebuilding are engines can be expensive. I pulled my 70's 350/300 with over 100K and parked it in a corner of the garage to rest for awhile. Put a ZZ crate engine in its place. More HP, roller cam, and it runs great. I can always reinstall the removed engine to sell the car.

[Jim Callan]

Re: C3 Engine Removal - Update

Thanks Mike,,

What are the L82 cam specs or where can I find them ??

Someone suggested the Lunati "voodoo" - 638-61601LK

Check it out - http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...85&prmenbr=361

Has any one used this cam or thw L82 ?

Thanks