66 Headlights

[Mike Qualls]

Suffering with limp headlight, one opens the other stays shut, could be switch?
could be motor asm.? I have many books and not one explains R & R of the headlight, any pros out there. Thanks Mike

[William C.]

Re: 66 Headlights

Switch feeds both motors at once, not likely a problem if one works. Check motor grounds first, star washer should be between the terminal and the metal of the motor case, not under the bolt head. clean surface and retry. try to turn the wheel at the endo of the motor by hand to see if the assembly is stuck/frozen. If it doesn't turn easily with the wheel, remove and rebuild the motor, freetingup the stuck parts. Do not force the motor armature out of the case, as you will damage the bearing.

[Stephen L.]

Re: 66 Headlights

In addition to a motor problem you could have some stuck binding bearings on the headlite bucket itself. These tend to corrode...especially if the car has been exposed to winter salt. Pull them apart and clean/replace as necessary.

[Mike Qualls]

Re: 66 Headlights

Bill, are you saying you can manually turn the headlight assembly by hand, I did notice a small wheel at the end of the moter but it seemed very spongy. next dumb question, can you take a stab at which nuts to go after first, I removed the front grill and have been looking upside down at this project, is it better to remove the hood and go at it from the engine compartment side or from the front of the car. Thanks Mike

[Mike Qualls]

Re: 66 Headlights

Steve,do you know of a good book that shows how to remove these rascals, it shure looks like they were removed when the car was last painted 20 years ago.
Thanks Mike

[William C.]

Re: 66 Headlights

The '65 AIM shows the mounting of the motor, it pulls of the shaft pretty easily. It is easier with the hood off by far, but it can be done working around thru the opening. The bolt to the strap coming off the header bar, the ground wire and a spring clip are all that keep it in place, other than the power feed connection on the end.

[Gerard F.]

Re: 66 Headlights

Mike,

Take a look in your Chassis Service Manual in the electrical section, if you have one. I have a 67, amd the 67 Chassis Manual has a simple procedure to remove the motor without taking off the hood or the grill. Having done it, I can do it in 5 minutes although it will take at least an hour the first time.

It helps to have a mirror positioned against the radiator and a good light under the forward compartment to see what you are doing (and some eyes on your fingertips, just kidding!) Here's the procedure from the manual. in my words:

1. Raise the hood, and put a bolt or screwdriver in the safety hole in the hood brace (so that it can't come down and break your arm.)
2. Remove the positive lead to the battery and connector to the motor. Be careful with the connector to the motor, it pulls straight out, don't pull by the wires.
3. Turn the Knurned knob at the inboard end of the motor to releave tension on the gear, until the knob and the headlight pod move freely, then six turns to the free position direction.
4. Then remove one clip where the motor connects to the pod, and the one bolt on the motor mounting strap (where the motor ground connects). Then pull the motor inboard and it should come right out. Don't lose the plastic bushing on the motor shaft.

Remember the positions of the pod and the motor shaft as you are going to have to put them back the same way.

If you have to pull the headlight pods then you have to remove the hood as the pods won't fit through the opening between the the hood and the body (but the motor will). Again you will need a mirror, lot's of light (and eyes on your fingers). The adjustment of the pods, up and down positions are easiest to do with the motors removed. Get yourself some rachet type box wrenches, and a flexible extension on a 1/4" drive socket set to make the adjustments to the wye bracket.

Best thing to have is a 6" tall mechanic to work on the headlight motors and pods(just kidding).

Another thing to check is the limit switch for the up position which is mounted on the pod. If jambed in one position the motor for that side won't work. They make replacements for them.

Hope this helps!

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Jack H.]

Yep...manual over-ride...

is described in your copy of the car's owner's manual. You CAN reach up, turn the wheel and FORCE the HL bucket to open by hand.

[Mike Qualls]

Thanks To all

Thanks to all, I will try again. Mike

[Gerard F.]

Re: 66 Headlights-Correction

Mike,
The Limit Switch has nothing to do with the headlight motors. All it does is tell you whether both headlights are not fully open by the light on the console.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Mike Qualls]

Re: 66 Headlights-Correction

Jerry, I was able to get the headlight to move 2 inches (with the headlight switch) after playing with the Knurned knob and moving the pod, The motor is now out, plastic bushing you spoke about is already gone,with the motor out the pod seems to move freely, do you think it might be the gear or worm gear, I suppose I could open her up and look, or send her out, that's no fun, does it hurt the motor if I was to have a budy move the headlight switch and watch the motor will out of the car, I used to have a electical device I could plug any car item into for testing on the bench, sorry thst got away. what do you recomend at this point, Thanks a ton.Mike

[Gerard F.]

Re: 66 Headlights-Correction

Mike,

Sorry, I didn't get back earlier, I was putting in a new set of T-3 headlights in my 67. If the pod moves freely with the motor out, it has to be the motor, either the gear(probably) or the motor itself.

You can test it on the bench with a 12 V battery charger, just rig up solderless connectors to the motor. Look at the connector on the car. The black lead is the ground (negative on the battery charger), the other two (yellow and green on mine) is up or down.

Don't be afraid to take it apart, just remember how to put it back together, it's actually fun. Take a look at the main drive gear, you will see where the grooves (teeth) may be bunged up by the harder worm gear. They say you can turn the gear 180, and reuse it, that should be only a temporary fix. I tried that once and was back at it a few years later.

If it's the gear. Paragon and other online venders have replacements. I have replaced the gears in both my motors.

Clean the gear box up and the motor with tuner cleaner. I used Triflo spray lub on all the moving parts. Then pack the gear box with none hardening grease.

Put it back together and try it out. It's amazing how electrical parts last with just a little cleaning.

If it doesn't turn on the battery charger after cleaning, then think about sending it out.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Gerard F.]

Also

before you put the motor back on the pod, make any adjustments you need to the up and down positions of the pod with the bolts on the wye bracket. With the lights up and the bezel on, the bezel should be within 2 degrees down to plumb.
In the down position adjust it to best body fit.

Although the position adjustments can be make with the motor attached, it's much easier for access to the bolts with the motor out.

Jerry Fuccillo

[Mike Qualls]

Re: Also

Jerry, thanks a ton, your right its best to go after it, If I screw it up I can always send out, I will let you know when when the six inch tall helper and I succeed. Mike