PF-141 oil filter canister: how to disassemble?

[Gary B.]

Can anyone tell me how to remove the central bolt from a PF-141 oil canister? Once the bolt is out, is there a seal at the base to keep oil from leaking past the bolt?

Thanks,

Gary

[Mike M.]

Re: PF-141 oil filter canister: how to disassemble

3/4" socket, turn cc, and hold the can as the threads of the bolt exit the block otherwise it'll fall on your clean garage floor. there's a rubber seal, it comes with the new element and positions up in the by-pass valve assembly that's bolted to the block. be sure and remove the old seal before installing the new seal. if engine is cold, grease the seal with vaseline and it'll stay in place as you thread the can back on the engine. mike

[Roy B.]

Re: PF-141 oil filter canister: how to disassemble

If you remove the bolt , I don't know how you re-crimp it and yes the seal is under the bolt head.

[Rob A.]

Re: PF-141 oil filter canister: how to disassemble

To get the bolt out, you have to loosen the the retainer that is "staked" on the bolt that the spring pushes up on to keep the bolt tight against the bottom of the cannister. There's a brass washer under the bolt head. I think there may also be a seal on the bolt inside.

[Gary B.]

How to restake; anyone sell the washer & seal?

As Roy and Rob correctly guessed, I already have the canister off the car. Once I unstake the retainer and get the bolt out, is there any way to restake it when I want to reassemble the canister after painting it? And does anyone sell the brass washer and internal seal?

Gary

[Bernard M.]

Re: PF-141 oil filter canister: how to disassemble

I have used a dremel tool to carefully smooth out the crimps while holding down the spring loaded insert with the handles of a pair of pliers stuck inside the canister. Instead of the crimp, I put the bolt in a lathe and turned a groove in the wide shank of the bolt, just where the crimp had ended, then used a snap ring in the groove for reassembly. I've also seen a hole drilled through and a roll pin inserted instead of turning the groove into the shank of the bolt. I used a crush washer (the kind used for brake master cylinder connection) under the bolt head. Good luck with whatever you try. Bernie

[Gary B.]

Bernie; yet one more question

Bernie,

I like the idea of a snap ring. Do you remove the snap ring and replace the crush washer every time you change the filter? Also, is there no seal of any kind on the inside of the canister, as Ron speculated?

Gary

[Bernard M.]

Re: Bernie; yet one more question

I change the oil in my car a couple times a year so there's not much wear and tear on the washer. If you use the snap ring technique, it's an easy fix if it should start to leak around the bolt. Mine's lasted several years without signs of a leak. The crush washer is available at any good parts store. There is no seal inside. The centering cone sits on a spring that fits up inside it and extends to the bottom of the canister. When installed on the motor, there is no tension or pressure on the snap ring (or roll pin) because the filter pushes the cone down to effect the seal at each end.

[Joe R.]

Re: Yet One More Answer

Guys,

You don't have to replace a crimp on the bolt for the spring and cone. The filter cannister was assembled for convenience with the cone staked. You can just pop in the filter and the cone is pressed against the paper filter by the spring. It's all held in place by the filter without the need for a snap ring or pin. Leaving it apart makes it easier to clean next oil change.

Regards,

JR

[Gary B.]

Thanks Everyone. *NM*

[Gary B.]

J.Ray or Bernie; gloss level for canister paint?

Can either of you suggest what level of gloss is appropriate when repainting a canister? From 0% gloss to 100% gloss, what's a reasonable number?

Gary

[Joe R.]

Re: J.Ray or Bernie; gloss level for canister pain

Gary,

A very good question. I'll tell you what I know and you make up your mind as to degree of gloss.

I have sold many NOS oil canisters and they have ran from high gloss to flat black. Keep in mind that these are canisters that were made in the 1970's.

I have never seen an original canister that was not "originally" high gloss black however there are some things to remember.

A lot of parts that started out high gloss black didn't end up that way in the next 30 or so years. These canisters were subject to the heat of the oil and also the heat of the exhaust. That would make any part non glossy over a period of 30 years.

Humidity is the one thing that can make high gloss black turn flat black before it dries. That's why those NOS canisters ran the range from high gloss black to flat black.

So, in the end it's your choice but common sense dictates that they were high gloss black when the general installed them in Flint or St. Louis (wherever).

Hope this helps more than it confuses and hope that someone has something to add. Maybe Mike Hanson could shed some light on this subject.

Regards,

JR

[Gary B.]

Thanks JR; Hopefully Mike H. will chime in *NM*

[Jon S.]

Re: J.Ray or Bernie; gloss level for canister pain

Gary, if I remember correctly Corvette Specialties of Maryland sells the replacement parts for the canister for around $10 bucks. Sorry, I forget the part number at this time. I'll check through my paper work and let you know. Regards, Jon
P.S. The parts did not include a new bell.

[Doug Flaten]

Re: PF-141 oil filter canister: how to disassemble

Although it is not stock, I used a gasket that I made from a sheet of Viton Gasket material. If the metal washer leaks, it might be an option.
Doug