Hello, I need some help removing my radio from my 1976. I have removed the A/C vents, removed all the screws around the trim, removed the clock knob, and removed the nuts from the radio shafts, but I cant get that trim to even wiggle. My 76 Service manual fails to address radio removal. Can someone PLEASE help?!!!! Thanks!
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Re: C3 Radio Removal Help Needed!!!!!!!!!!!
The trim part on mine (also a 76) is very fragile. Be careful...
If i remember right, putting it back on I had to put the air vent/top portion in first, and it went behind the the top dash pad a bit. So I think that the bottom lifts out first... -
Re: C3 Radio Removal Help Needed!!!!!!!!!!!
I took the right map dash pad out. (easy to do gives a little more room).The radio in my 70 has a metal bar at the passenger side rear thats attached to a bracket on the floor. Thats the last fastener along with the front control knob nuts to remove. Lot of things in the rear to move the radio around. Don't know if there's enough room.
Ihstead,I take the gauge bezel out. You said you took all the bezel screws out. There are 2 nuts on the bottom, (real PITA to get out). Once they're out, the bezel will tilt forward some. you can disconnect all the wires from the bezel and take it out.(don't forget the oil line) The radio will be sitting there all alone. Good luckComment
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Re: C3 Radio Removal Help Needed!!!!!!!!!!!
Christopher-----
The problem is that you've probably not removed the 2 nuts from the studs that are on the bottom of the center cluster bezel. These are a BEAR to get at. You have to remove the forward console lower side trim panels. Then, you have to get in there and remove the nuts. The factory service manual says to "...insert flexible drive socket and remove nuts...". I first read that in about 1972 and I remember the words to this day. They make it sound so simple, but simple it ain't.
One tip: when you put it back together use wing nuts instead of the hex nuts on these studs. The next time, you'll be able to get these things off easier. However, this only works if you have small enough hands to get into the small space that you have to work with. If you have large hands that won't fit into the space, forget this "trick"; it won't work for you.
The bezel may "stick" even after you have these nuts and all other fastners out. It's been "in there" a long while and it's "married" to the surrounding parts. NEVER, EVER pull this bezel from the top, though. You'll break it just about every time if you do. Nice ones are available in reproduction, but they're expensive.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: C3 Radio Removal Help Needed!!!!!!!!!!!
I found, on the second or third removal of the center gage cluster, that I didn't need to remove those nuts all the way. The console on my 1970 is slotted, so the nuts only need to come off part way. That makes dealin with them a lot easier.
It has been a long time, but I recall the use of 1/4 inch drive, universal joint, and maybe a two-inch extension. 7/16 deep well socket IIRC.
Be very careful and go slow. There is not a lot of room in there.TerryComment
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Agree With Terry!
Back the nuts off just enough to let the studs slide through the mounting slots in the lower console. Another hint: use a deep dish socket mounted to a spring-flex drive extention. You're basically making a right angle turn with the wrench to get onto the nuts with VERY tight working room and poor visibility. Looking back, this was an EXCELLENT application candidate for use of living hinge plastic or spring steel clips (like the upper dash uses to attach to the forward lower windshield birdcage lip) vs. a conventional stud, washer and nut fastener!Comment
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Re: Agree With Terry!
Jack and Terry-----
Yes, the u-shaped, forward console brace through which the studs attach is slotted on all 68-76 Corvettes. This does mean that it is not necessary to completely remove the nuts on the studs. However, there's good news and bad news here. The good news is that the nuts don't have to be completely removed. The bad news is that if the nuts are not completely removed it can increase the "struggle" and "contortions" necessary to remove the bezel. That can, in turn, lead to a broken bezel.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Agree With Terry!
Yes, Joe! And it's surprising to me how few actually read the Chassis Service Manual where GM WARNS about the handling of the center console cluster bezel citing it was DESIGNED to have weak points for safety reasons (sacrificial breakaway in the event of a head-on collision?)....Comment
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