58-62 windsplit mouldings

[John M.]

Are you tired of taking deducts for your service replacement windsplits, you know, the ones with smooth studs and pal nuts, instead of threaded studs like the originals? I discovered today, that you can carefully run a 6-32 die over the studs, and they will thread very nicely. You can only thread to within a little more than 1/8" from the backing plates, but once installed, you can't tell the difference! This may be old news to some of you, but I had never thought to try it, and it works good.

Regards, John McGraw

[Tom H.]

Re: 58-62 windsplit mouldings

Thanks John. I have some really nice repros but just about to take my originals apart to try and get the dents out. That will save a lot of elbow grease Tom

[John M.]

Re: 58-62 windsplit mouldings

Tom,
I can't speak to the repro ones, but the GM service replacements had steel studs, and they threaded real nice. I have never had a set of repro's, but if they are made the same, then it should work.

Regards, John McGraw

[Mike E.]

Re: 58-62 windsplit mouldings

John--
Help me understand what you are saying in your first post--that all 58-62 fender spears originally had threaded studs? What tid they have for retainers?
I've had two original-paint 62's, am looking at a third one, and am trying to determine what is original vs. replacement. Are there differences in the studs between originals and replacements?
Thanks,
Mike

[John M.]

Re: 58-62 windsplit mouldings

Mike,
While I can't speak about 61 and 62 cars for sure, since I have never owned one, all 58,59,and 60 cars used windsplits that had threaded studs that were held in place by machine nuts and washers. The GM service replacements, used a smooth stud and pal nuts to hold the strips in place. The judges look for this and will deduct for this.

Regards, John McGraw

[Brad K.]

Re: 58-62 windsplit mouldings

A warning to those who attempt to thread the smooth studs on a repo. I tried to do it and ended up ruining a couple of moldings. The studs are poorly spot welded underneath and are especially prone to breaking the welds when attempting to thread. Be careful and don't apply torque to them willy-nilly. It is impossible complete the threading operation or to tighten them down with the stud spinning. JB weld will not hold them.
Brad

[John M.]

Re: 58-62 windsplit mouldings

Brad,
You are correct, I went very carefully, backing up the die every turn or so and kept the stud well lubricated with oil as I went. I am going to try repairing some old ones that I have by using a stud welding gun that attaches studs to body panels to pull out dents. We use a similar gun to attach machine screw studs to the inside of elevator panels to mount controls on, and they really hold good. I have at least 4 sets that have broken studs on them. The stainless cladding can be removed fairly easily if you have patience, and I have pinged out the dents in the stainless and re-polished several sets.

Regards, John McGraw

[Brad K.]

Re: 58-62 windsplit mouldings

Like a dummy, I even tried to hammer a PAL nut on the stud that was broken loose, in an attempt to use the molding anyway (the stud was near the rear portion of the fender and I thought the judges wouldn't see it!) and the result was I drove the stud vertically against the outer skin and caused a very large dent! Needless to say....that was a stupid thing to do!
Brad