does anyone have past experience with the masterlube system to eliminate dry starts , they use a cylinder with half air and oil to prelube the motor to reduce the effects of enginews sitting for extended periods . I first seen them showing up in my boating mag and have always felt it seemed like the perfest answer to my boat and the classic car. your comments please as i am investigating the product for purchase . they did mention the desired product for displacing the oil from the cylinder was nitrogen , is this because air would cause cross contamination?
masterlube system
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Re: masterlube system
This is very interesting especially the portable system that will allow you to use the device on multiple cars. I wonder if you can connect it to the extra port for the remote oil filter on a big block 66 427. I cant see any downside at this time.- Top
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Re: masterlube system
Whoops! Misread the post.
Here's what I have on my 69 427 435 driver. An electric fuel pump, little thing hidden at the back of the car and an oil pressure switch on the boss at the oil filter. No oil pressure, no power to the fuel pump. Pressure comes up, pump comes on. It's the exact thing needed for a car that sits more than a week where the fuel evaporates and the oil drains down. It takes a while to start after a long period of sitting (because you need to get the oil pressure)but on a day to day basis you wouldn't know it was there. No nitrogen required. (Not NCRS)- Top
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Re: masterlube system
If its been sitting a real long time and I'm worried about a dry start I'll pull the distributor and use my oil pump primer to put oil through the entire system before I ever spin the crank. Cyl walls get a bath of fogging oil as well. Now I have peace of mind when I hit that key.- Top
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Re: masterlube system
What somone has done is found a new way to market an Accusump (tm) or more accurately, an oil accumulator. These were common in racing to maintain pressure should the oil pressure drop, such as slushing away from the oil pump in a corner. However, with most running a dry sump and a 10 qt external tank, you never get a pressure drop in the corners anymore.
Basically, it is an air spring. The oil line in connects to the oil pressure port on the block. As oil pressure builds, it fills the lower chamber, pushing a piston up which compresses the air in the upper chamber. This pushes oil out if the pressure in the engine drops.
If you insert a valve in the line, you can fill the accumulator with oil under pressure, close the valve, and then the next time you prepare to start the engine, you release the valve and push oil through the engine.
You usually only get about a quart to go in, and pressure falls rapidly. So it is a lot of work for very little benefit. If you are worried about dry start up after a long time, pull the plugs, squirt some oil in each, pull the coil wire, crank the engine until you see pressure on the gauge, and then reconnect the coil wire. Start the engine.- Top
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