Engine compartment black out sequence

[Chuck R.]

I tried to find this question out in the archives but got frustrated pretty quickly, so I'll risk getting my skull caved in by asking here as I'm sure it has already been discussed.

Were the engine compartments on 68s blacked out before or after the application of the body color?

How and where did they break it?

I'm a long ways from performing this task, but it's one of those nagging questions that keeps surfacing in my beady lil brain, usually at 2:00 A.M. too

Thanks Chuck

[John H.]

Re: Engine compartment black out sequence

Chuck -

Engine compartment blackout was done after exterior color; someone more knowledgeable on C3's will chime in with info on where the breaks were.

[Tom R.]

Re: Engine compartment black out sequence

Chuck:

As John states, blackout was after body paint. In the compartment, a mask was used to protect the body paint and therefore the paint/blackout demarcation is rather obvious along the fender gutter and up toward the windshield including the windshield wiper trough. The wire and rubber hoses clamps were attached and thus should show no paint underneath. Seems like something else was installed that got shot blackout but can't recall off hand. I would suggest you study an original or correctly restored to get a good visual before proceeding. Pay particular attention to hood hinges which also got their share of blackout. The tech manual is pretty clear on this point.

Also...do search of the archives...much has been written.

[Chuck S.]

Re: Engine compartment black out sequence

Fender gutters are not blacked out.

Engine compartment black-out is below the fender ledges, extending somewhat but not completely into the "hollows" in front of the firewall. Generally there is little or no black out on the rear of the inner fenders near the fender

While there is no black-out on the fender ledges, black-out is on the narrow rear partition that separates the plenum from the engine compartment. I expect the inner fenders, firewall, and plenum were probably blacked-out together without the guy ever taking his hand off the gun trigger.

The black-out at the ends of the partition ledge may end anywhere from straight across (more or less parallel to car axis) to diagonally from engine comparment to rear plenum edge. The only certainty is that the break line IS NEVER a sharp, masked line...it should be fuzzed as if blocked by a mask. Double-taping (?), the practice of turning 2" masking tape back on itself to give you a soft break line should work.

For the hood black-out, see the thread below on the C1 hood blackout...interestingly, its very similar. A mask was used to prevent the flat outside part of the hood from being blacked out, so the break line along the hood edge also should be "fuzzy". Down near the hinge, the mask could no longer give a "relatively" sharp break line; there will be a tendency for black-out to "overspray" onto the outer hood edge (body color) at the hinge. The hinge itself may have both black-out and evidence of body color (minor).

Whew...Now you know why several of us didn't just jump all over your question, Chuckster. Buy yerself a picture book.

[Chuck S.]

P.S. Some More...

Typically, the very front of the hood that is down behind the radiator and support will also have little black-out. A hood that is thoroughly blacked-out in that area is a sure tip-off that the hood was blacked out OFF the car...AANNNNK! Not the way the factory did it.

[Dick W.]

Re: P.S. Some More...

Chuckie and Chuckster good description. One thing else that you will notice is under the hood ledge there is usually, but not always, bare fiberglass on the top edge of the inner fender where is is attached to the upper surround. Most of your clips, i.e. heater hose, wiring, etc were attached before the blackout. On original cars you can move these clips and see bare glass

[Chuck S.]

Re: P.S. Some More...

Dickie, I knew that about the clips being attached...in fact, I have seen cars with bare glass visible on the inner fender; the clip was rotated out of position when black-out was done...later when rotated into proper position during assembly, the bare glass "shadow" was visible.

I didn't know that about the area under the fender ledges, but I'm not surprised since no one can see it (or easily spray it). How did you ever find it? You must have been flat on your back underneath, with the engine out of the car.

[Dick W.]

Re: P.S. Some More...

Back in the dark ages when I was somewhat more agile, as we disassembled a car I would look for all the little things like that I could find. I always thought that attempting to duplicate the sloppy way the cars were built was neat. Everyone can do the big things when restoring a car. Had a hard time convincing customers that though. I did a 66 425 hp car and was being extra careful to make it as original as possible in appearance. I had an awful time. The owner would come in and something would not be shiney enough, or have enough paint on it. He would slip my employees a few bucks to fix it like he wanted it. Should have been about a 99.5 or so car. After the alterations it still was a Duntov car but at 98.2 or .3.

[Scott Marzahl]

Engine compartment black

Hey guys, would the GM Restoration engine compartment black paint be a good paint for this application? I have gallon of this stuff or I can shoot DP90 and flattened Deltron on my 67.

Thanks for any tips.
Scott Marzahl

[Dick W.]

Re: Engine compartment black

The GM paint would be a very good choice for original look. Just remember that it was used sparingly, not a heavy coat. PPG also has the same paint, I believe that it is DDL-9300. Shoot right out of the can. No thinning needed

[Chuck S.]

Re: Engine compartment black

If you have the gallon size, use the GM Restoration Paint. It don't get no better; that's what GM used in the first place. In fact, anywhere on the chassis the original finish was semi-gloss/semi-flat black, that was the original material used. Use it well; they aren't making any more of it.

DP90 is high-dollar paint...I would only use it on bead-blasted metal parts as a primer to provide superior rust prevention.

[Chuck R.]

Re: Thanks Gents

That was exactly the info. I was looking for.

Thanks for the great responses, now maybe I can get a full nights sleep

Chuckster

[Chuck S.]

Re: Thanks Gents

"...now maybe I can get a full nights sleep"

Chuckster, you need to relax...get yourself a hobby.

[Chuck R.]

Re: Funny you say that Chuckster

Havent picked up my golf clubs in two years.

Only went fishing twice in the last two years.

AND..... havent had a quiet evening with the wife in two weeks!!

I really miss my fishing gear