SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

[Pat #25912]

Ummm...does the side of the gasket with the blue sealing rings go against the
head or against the intake?

Instructions say if the front and rear gaskets are left out, to use a 1/4" bead of RTV on the block sealing surface. I assume that would be 1/4" wide. How thick would you put it on?

Thanks again. Pat G.

[Craig S.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

Pat - the printoseal as Felpro calls it faces the intake manifold. 1/4" bead is good.....use the copper color RTV...Craig

[Stephen W.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

Pat , I would use the RTV sealer from the GM parts counter. It sets up so quick and cures in no time. I've resealed the manifold on my truck and this stuff is great. a 1/4 bead would refer to the diameter of the bead as you squeeze it out of the tube. The GM stuff is also a nice dark gray color.

[Roy B.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

Go get the intake gasket kit that has the front and rear rubbers fillers. If that RTV peals of , it gets in to the oil system

[Clem Z.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

IMHO i would use a stock type intake gasket,the one with the soft dark gray material on both sides of a metal insert. these seal much better than the fel-pro because they allow for more iregularity than the harder fel-pro types. also if you use the silicone on the ends make sure you "tin" the block and intake surfaces by rubbing a thin layer of the silicone sealer on with your finger and then put on the 1/4" bead

[Joe L.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

clem-----

I agree. The stock, embossed-type intake gaskets are the best for sealing. I don't think that the Print-O-Seal are bad, but I think that the stock type are better.

For the formed-in-place RTV intake end seals, I've discovered something better. Use Permatex RTV Cleaner/Primer. It is supplied in a small spray can and it's expensive. However, if you treat both the manifold and block surfaces prior to application of the RTV, you will get outstanding adhesion. I now use this stuff for most places where I use RTV as a sealer or as a gasket replacement.

[Clem Z.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

i forgot to post i also cleaned the surfaces with thinner before using the RTV. since i have been out of the engine building business for about 10 years i guess new chemicals have come along. i like fel pro gaskets on engines that have all the gasket mating surfaces new and flat and also they are great if you are into changing the intakes often because they do not stick to the surface like the stock types. edelbrock used to put instruction with their manifolds to use the stock type gasket for street engines.

[Joe L.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

clem----

Heard anything about the new Multiple Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets?

[Clem Z.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

i have heard they are very good for alum head with iron block engines because of the different expansion rates of the 2 materials

[Eugene B.]

Judging question regarding RTV

Gents,
I have been reluctant to use RTV anywhere because of judging issues.

Will a judge take point deductions if he sees an RTV bead between the intake manifold and the engine block?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Gene

[Dick W.]

Re: Judging question regarding RTV

Seeing is the key word. Applied skillfully it will be invisible, but if seen it will take a point deduction just like anything else that deviates from what is normally factory production. Judges may also deduct for the absence of the tab on the intake seal.

I like to take a small center punch and slightly rough up the block sealing surface at the ends of the intake. When using the rubber gasket it will give it something to "bite" and hold it from blowing out. If using silicone, as previously mentioned, cleaning the surface is the key to keep it from blowing out.

[Mark B.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

Having built several engines in the past, both Ford and Chevy, I have discovered that Fel-Pro now has new intake manifold gaskets for the front and rear that incorporate turned down tabs along their length to keep them from moving during assembly. I recently used them on my 59 283 and installed them with a small amount of Permatex red silicone sealant/adhesive and let them set up for about 2 hours before installing the intake. Looks original and no gasket misalignment!! I use my trusted and true Brake Cleaner to clean all metal mating surfaces when assembling with silicone sealants. If anything, the bond that is created from the silicone can sometimes be a pain when disassembling parts. I plan on using the end gaskets on my 62 327 re-build this weekend and I'm hoping for the same results. The key, IMHO, is to be patient and let the sealants set up to hold gaskets in place.

[Joe R.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

Hi Joe:

You mention that you like the stock-type gaskets. Can you suggest a suitable GM part number, or recommend another source?

Does the stock rear seal have locating tabs like the front one? My car has the locating tabs on the front seal but no visible tabs on the back. Since the back is presently producing an oil leak, I'll be pulling the manifold in a few weeks to take a look.

When I reinstall the manifold, I want to use the "best" possible method to make a leak-proof seal while retaining an NCRS correct appearance.

[Joe L.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

Joe----

If you want a "correct" gasket set and original embossed design, then your best bet is probably the Paragon reproduction. I believe that it's correct in every way except for lack of the tiny "GM" embossed on one of the "flaps". Paragon has gasket sets for both the 57-68 style small block and the 69-72 style small block. The difference is the end seals. The earlier style used the "flaps" for retention; the later style uses the "pins" for retention.

Unfortunately, the best sealing method might not be consistent with judging issues, especially for earlier engines with the "flap" style end gaskets. I recommend only the method of using RTV in place of the end seals for the best sealing. On the later engines with "flapless" end seals, if you do this carefully, no one will be able to discern the difference after the engine is painted. For the earlier style, the "flaps" will be missing. There's no way around that if you use the RTV for end seals.

There is no GM gasket set currently available for 57-68 small blocks. The 69-72 can use the GM #10141994. The earlier small blocks can use the latter gasket set if the RTV end seals are used in place of the "pin" style end seals supplied.

[Stephen W.]

Re: SBC Fel-Pro intake gasket

Let me share this about RTV silicone sealer. I've used the red , the blue, and copper stuff. Had to wait for it to set up so you could reassemble the parts. Then it still squeezed out and I ended up with a faulty seal. That was till a friend told me to use GM Silicone sealer. Part# 12346192. The stuff is a very dark gray ( almost the same color as the end gaskets on the manifold) The stuff has a lot of body to it and sets up super fast. You have a window to work with it but it does not need the set up time like permetex does. I squeezed a bead on my trucks block and dropped the manifold down... that quick. it buldged out ever so slightly and looked exactly like the way the truck came when new. I resealed the manifold at about 76,000 The truck has 225,000 on the engine now. Not a leak and it never broke down. If you touch the bead that squeezed out it is plyable but you cannot mark it with a fingernail and you need a very sharp knife to do any damage to it. Changed the rear diff cover and had a leakproof seal in seconds. I had resealed that with the blue junk 3 times before. It has never leaked with the GM stuff.