1968 Cage & Frame concerns

**Gene M.** · February 25, 2000, 04:32 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

It sounds like some frame deteriation at the kick ups. Or possible some bird cage problems along the door sill rail. Did you check out the upper side of the kick up area of the frame?

**William Brown** · February 25, 2000, 04:42 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

Obviously not close enough. I'll attempt to check again and

see what I can find. Thanks for the information.

William Brown (Not quite breathing yet)

**Chuck G.** · February 25, 2000, 04:54 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

When I jack up my 69 roadster...or my 63 roadster...or my 54 roadster using a floor jack on one point only as you have described, the gap at the top of my doors open too. As a matter of fact, if I jack the car with the door closed, I have trouble getting it open. Likewise, if I jack the car with the door open, I have terrible trouble getting it closed. Sounds normal to me. The frames on all three of these cars are as solid as a stones. Others might elaborate, but I think this is "normal flex". Chuck

**Joe L.** · February 25, 2000, 05:28 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

Chuck and William-----

I definitely agree. The amount of flex which William has described as evidenced by the enlarged door "gap" is quite normal. My original owner 1969 convertible has always done this and it has a California-perfect frame to this day. A coupe will have a somewhat stiffer structure, but I would still expect about the same amount of flex as observed at the door "gap".

**Larry Sherman** · February 25, 2000, 05:33 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

I also have a 68 coupe and I can guarantee a 1/4 in. change in the top of the door opening if I lift that way. On my 66 convertible, I raised the car on jack stands positioned just ahead of and just behind the doors for some bodywork a few years back. The opening changed so much I had to redo some of the door area bodywork when I returned it to the wheel. (The door opening spaces went away) Both these cars have been completely apart and have EXCELLENT frames.

Larry

**Terry M.** · February 25, 2000, 05:37 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

I agree with Chuck - this is "normal" flex. My 1970 has done this since new. It used to disturb me - especially when, like Chuck, I couldn't open or close the door(s). Now I just curse my failing memory for not remembering to open/close the door before raising the car.

I do try to avoid raising the Corvette one point at a time if I can, but I don't always have access to the frame hoist.

BTW - you should see how the Suburban flexes when I raise it on the frame hoist. Lots of movement between the bumper and the sheet metal at both ends. The Caprice does the same thing.

Terry

**Larry Sherman** · February 25, 2000, 05:46 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

Want a real hoot? Try a C4. I can lift the rear corner of my 84 and the front corner of the same side lifts ( seemingly ) at the same time. What an increase in rigidity. Gives you faith in technology (and the general).

Larry

**Bob Booth #33372** · February 25, 2000, 10:00 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

Yeah, my '72 coupe does it too. Not quite 1/4" but maybe 1/8" or so. Initially a very unsettling feeling (I don't know about anybody else, but in my mind I can just hear that fiberglass cracking from the flex every time I do that) but you get used to it eventually. Ohhh, just one of the many pleasures (read anxieties) of Corvette ownership.

Enjoy,

Bob Booth

**Jerry Clark** · February 25, 2000, 10:17 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

I'll add my 2 cents to this and claim the same exibited flex regardless of coupe or convert.

jerry

**Gene M.** · February 26, 2000, 07:21 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

Bob, I agree with you an 1/8 inch is about normal as jacked up at one spot. A 1/4 inch sounds like a lot.

**Bob Booth #33372** · February 26, 2000, 11:15 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

Yeah, 1/4" sounded like alot to me too but this is my first Vette and I'm really not an expert by any stretch. I have a real solid frame and during the restoration, I had to re-fabricate and weld almost all body mounts and large sections of the cage, so because of this it may be a little stiffer (due to lack of inevitable fatigue) than one that's been around for 30+ years, but I can't imagine it being THAT much different. Oh well, who knows?

Regards,

Bob Booth

**jeff chester** · March 1, 2000, 09:06 AM

Re: 1968 Cars

Where's the car at, all original? What's it got options? color, I want it if you don't... What do you plan on doing with this car, is the big question..Restore, drive, show etc. Look at the windshield frame/bird cage. My 68 had some damage/rot, my other 68 had none, and the 69--let's just say parts car frame.. the 75 - parts car had none-Go figure. L71 right? Let us know we will tell you if is a good value, as you can tell, LOTS of Vette fans out hear. Oh, the saying goes "By the best vette, for the money you have" other wise you will do what many of us have done, bought a basket case and spent 10X the amount to fix her up. How's the paint, original? that's $4000-6000 dollars right there. jc

**Chuck R.** · September 17, 2000, 05:15 PM

1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

I am currently negotiating with a gent who owns a 1968 coupe with the original drive train intact. He started out by gutting the entire interior to includes all exterior chrome. OK this is where it turns ugly, he abandoned the project and left the car to the elements barely covered for the past three years with an old tarp.

He wants $2,500.00 for the car with it's loose parts, but my concerns are these. 1) the drivers side frame by the dog leg is rotted out on the bottom surface. 2) Both windshield pillars have had feeble attempts to have them welded. I have heard horror stories about cage replacements. I'm not afraid to dig into it, but I want to make sure that I havent got a money pit on my hands as every nickle and dime will count.

**Jerry** · September 17, 2000, 05:15 PM

Re: 1968 Cage &amp; Frame concerns

Hi Chuck:

You mention that every nickel will count, this probably isn't the car for you even if you are capable of performing the extensive labor yourself. The replacing of frame sections requires a fair amount of skill and absolutely must be done correctly, as you might imagine and that is the easy part, the birdcage replacement requires all the skill the frame does plus the ability to do fiberglass work and paint. While the parts aren't a huge expense the labor involved is staggering. If this 68 is a highly desirable car with , say a big block powertrain, your investment might pay off eventually but you will have a lot of money invested if you start having much of that labor performed professionally.

Good Luck

jerry

1968 Cage & Frame concerns