Is the resistor bracket simply screwed into the fiberglass firewall at the factory?
'66 FIREWALL MOUNTED RESISTOR
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Re: '66 FIREWALL MOUNTED RESISTOR
Mine also was loose because the glass was chewed up from removing the screw. I repaired mine by using a tooth pick and some GORILLA glue and placing a small amount around the perifery of the hole to fill it in a little. Things tighten up. Let the glue dry before using the hole...- Top
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Re: '66 FIREWALL MOUNTED RESISTOR
Hi Rob:
I had the same problem with a loose screw and searched the archives on the topic. Several people described various ways to add some material to the hole so that the screw gets more bite.
One posting (can't remember who it was) described an alternate method that I ended up using with good results. The trick is to get a standard hardware item that looks like a machine nut welded to a washer-shaped flange. Then, get a matching machine screw that has the exact same head as the factory self-threading screw. I was able to find both items at a nearby hardware store.
The flange portion of the nut assembly has two tangs that are intended to bite into the surface to keep it from spinning. I flattened these and instead used some epoxy to glue it to the inside of the firewall. The nut is covered by the firewall insulation, so it is completely undetectable once it is installed.
I like this solution because the ballast resistor can get very hot, and I wasn't sure that any glue I added to the hole would stand up to the heat. In fact, I think the heat is one reason that the original screws get loose over time. The captive nut solution provides a very secure mounting with good heat tolerance.
I'm sorry if my description of the hardware is hard to understand. I could probably provide a photo if you email me at jpr3@aol.com.- Top
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