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Re: How do I fix this 1965 hood?
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Re: How do I fix this 1965 hood?
Jim,
I can't see the forrest from the trees but I suspect this is the underhood support that is bonded to the hood skin. Have you been closing your hood by dropping it from about 18"???
I fixed my 1966 by removing the hood, clean area around broken seams including under the support. I used Ecklers Bondo and re bonded. To apply pressure to the repair area I supported the hood paint side down on a blanket or suitable protection and placed a full propane tank in the curvature of the support. No smoking while under repair!!
Randy- Top
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Re: How do I fix this 1965 hood?
Jim, it would be better if you showed a picture from further back. But, I am assuming it is some portion of the underside hood structure that has seperated from the top surface of the hood.
It further looks as if someone has possibly attempted to fix it in the past my using some type of adhiesive or bondo. I would use a dremel tool with a cutting wheel and slowly remove the repair material and expose the crack. I would then explore the crack and the integrety of the bond to the surrounding area. When I was satisfied I would dress the area very carefully and only remove the previous repair material and some of the original bonding material as needed. Then I would attempt to sand the inside of the crack with sandpaper folded over the end of a stiff blade putty knife. Work the sandpaper in and out untill you have it scuffed up real good. Blow the crack out with compressed air and bond it with the appropriate bonding adhiesive. If you use something like original formula, force it into the surfaces with a putty knife. I would also lightly preheat the area with a heat lamp to open the poors of the bonding surfaces. That is something I do to get a good bite between the adhiesive and the surface being bonded. It seems to make the adhiesive I use grab hard. Just my opinion. I would use a finger or towl to wipe the seam and let it sit for a couple of days. If you clamp it or weight it down, that is fine just don't touch it for a couple days. If you clamp, don't over clamp because you need to leave adhiesive between the two surfaces. You don't want to pucker your hood either. In a couple days wipe the area down with a very slightly damp paper towel of laqure thinner. Let it dry for at least a day in warm environment and then paint with your favorite black out. It should disappear at that time.
I suspect the original injury occured due to a poor factory bond that failed or possibly car on car type accident to the region possibly the fender. Just study the area closely before you tear into it. All this is just my humble opinion. Good luck, Terry- Top
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Re: How do I fix this 1965 hood?
I would use original formula from Eckler's or the other place in Oregon that sells original looking panels. I forget their name off the top of my head. I will looke it up.....
My favorite dremal tip is the heavy duty cut-off wheel. I also use a tip that looks like a drill bit with a rounded tip, it has cutting groves all up and down it. The other thing I use is a flexable dremal cable. It alows me to get into tighter places. If you are doing repair work like yours, it can be a life saver when it comes to control and getting into tight places without taking the whole car apart. I sometime sacrifice a tip just to get a job done. Beyound that I use a high speed disk grinder and a die grinder. But, you can only use them in areas that they will fit. Take your time. Your repair doesn't look that tough to do. But, you need to be careful if you have nice paint on the other side. It looks like there is a fairly large gap in there. Make sure it was meant to have adhiesive across the entire opening. I am not familiar with mid-years as much as C3's.- Top
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Re: How do I fix this 1965 hood?
Jim,
Let me add a few more comments to Terry's comments. In my case all 14 or so hood support interior bonds were broken. Only the bonds around the perimeter of the hood support were intact. That is why I suspected "dropping the hood" syndrome.
On mine there was a natural air gap beteeen the hood skin and hood support (underside). The closer to the center the bigger the gap, maybe 1/8" max. I bought a box a wooden shims at local big box home improvement store and used these to wedge the gap open more for better cleaning. Also to aid in getting the bondo under the support then removed them while bondo cured.
While you have your hood off check your hood hinges for wear.
Randy- Top
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