C2-L79 No spark

[Mike Swanson]

I just put her back together and tried to fire her up. Lots of stuff replaced. No frigin spark. I replaced manifold, rebuilt carb, points, rotor, cap but had to get those integrated point/condenser package for now. I didn't replace coil but think I may tomorrow with a standard for the local parts store.

Is it possible that a coil went bad just sitting for a month or so?

What's the best way to troubleshoot this.

Thanks,

Mike

[Jim T.]

Re: C2-L79 No spark

Have you checked to see that you have voltage going to the coil?

[Mike Swanson]

Re: C2-L79 No spark

Should I be able to see 12+/- volts at the coil with key on? I see nothing.

Mike

[Stephen L.]

Re: C2-L79 No spark

Sounds like you have a wiring problem. Check to see if 12 volts exist at the ballast resistor (key in run position)...at least on one end with a voltage of 8-9 volts on the other. This will confirm the problem to be between the resistor and the coil in the wiring. If no voltage is present then you need to look toward the ignition key. Get out your wiring diagram and trace the wiring to see where the source of 12 volts is and then look at the various points along the wiring to see when it disappears. If the engine turns over but won't fire then you most likely can begin at the key switch.

Another test would be to run a jumper from the + battery terminal to the positive +(pink) lead on the coil. If the car starts then the ignition system, points timing etc., are eliminated as your problem. Once it starts you'll need to remove the jumper to stop it. Don't run it too long as you have bypassed the ballast resistor and the coil won't "like" it for extended periods. You can use this same procedure working back to the ballast resistor which "tests" the interconnecting wiring as you go. Just make sure you are always connecting to the "pink/red" wires.

[Mike Swanson]

Re: C2-L79 No spark

I have 12.5 volts at both sides of the ballast and the + and - side of the coil so it seems that maybe the next step is the points. I will pull the cap to see if they are working correctly and go from there.

Do you have any advice on how to get the points close initially? I think they have been messed with so I would like to have them in the ballpark first until it runs and I can get the dwell meter on it.

Thanks as usual...Mike

[Duke W.]

Re: C2-L79 No spark

Check that you have ground continuity from the points. There is a wire soldered to the breaker plate that should be attached to the dist. housing at one the the vacuum advance attaching screws. The points open and close the coil to ground circuit.

Set the point gap to about .019" with a cam lobe on the high point. Check the timing by setting the engine at 10* BTDC. Then rotate the dist housing until the points just open while pulling up on the mainshaft.

Once the engine starts, set the points with a dwell meter to 30*, then set initial timing.

Duke

[Jack H.]

FYI

Don't expect to see a voltage differential across the ballast resistor UNTIL current flows. If the points are open, you'll see the same voltage on both side of the ballast....

[Mike Swanson]

Re: FYI

Guys:
I think I got the spark problem resolved but still won't start. The points were way out of whack. Dwelled them in to 30*. It tries but won't and I don't have enough advance turn radius to make a real change. I pulled the distributor again and checked it and I am off No. 1 by half a cylinder. Halfway between 2 and 1. I have tried rotating oil pump shaft 50 times but it wants to mesh with the cam gears there everytime.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Mike

[Mike Swanson]

Re: FYI

All is well now and she's running like a champ!

Thanks to Steve. Duke, Jim, Jack. I really appreciate your guys patience and advice. To me, this hobby would be impossible (or at least very very frustrating)without the knowledge and willingness to help on this board.

Thanks again,

Mike