Just replaced my amp gauge with a brand new, out of the Delco box, gauge and still no movement. Could someone explain to me the process for testing the leads coming to the gauge. Mine is a '64 vette so the two wires are solid black and blace w/white stripe. Just can't tell much from the wiring diagram, both wires go back to a junction at at the fuse box. TIA!
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Re: How to Test Amp Gauge Wiring
Fred, First take an ohm meter and test the new gauge for continuity. It would not be the first time a "New" electrical component didn't work. I'm not familiar with mid-year wiring so I can't help there. Are you sure the charging system is sound? What about discharge, does the meter in question go negative? -
Re: How to Test Amp Gauge Wiring
Fred, On my '65 (I think '64 is the same), BOTH wires should read +12 volts. One ends up on the starter solenoid, the other on or around the horn relay. I had to run new wires for both because mine were dead (used an inline fuse). Also, be careful because if you put +12 to one side of the gauge and not the other, you can fry the gauge or bend the needle.Comment
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Re: How to Test Amp Gauge Wiring
Jerry - thanks. Believe I too may have to do the wiring to make this work. Gauge is good, just don't think both wires are complete circuits (one is because it is getting current, will have to test to find out which is dead).Comment
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Re: How to Test Amp Gauge Wiring
Mark - thanks. Gauge test is good, believe one wire (don't know which yet) is a complete circuit while the other is not. Will test with volt meter to find out. Thanks again for your comments.Comment
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Re: How to Test Amp Gauge Wiring
Fred, the topic of bad ammeters has been cussed and discussed quite a bit on this bulletin board. I have posted responses to these discussions because I had the same problem in my 66 that you have. I had no indication of charge or discharge, no matter what I did to the electrical system. Even with the ignition on, engine off, and all accessories on, I didn't show a discharge. To make a long story short, my problem was not in the gauge or wiring; it was in the connectors on the engine side of the firewall. There are two connectors that connect the engine compartment wiring harness to the rest of the car through the fuse block. These connectors are held by clips that prevent vibrations from separating them. I found a lot of corrosion on both male and female sides of these connectors. After disconnecting the battery, I used a combination of mild acid, applied with a disposable glue brush, on the pins followed by a good brushing with a wire brush. Once that was cleaned up, I then applied di-electric grease to both sides and rejoined the connectors. The car has been trouble free for two years now. I wound up using a mild acid on the pins and rinsed them many times, brushed and washed them with soap and then rinsed again. Use the acid sparingly and only long enough to clean them. I kept increasing the time that the acid was on the pins until I had a clean set of connections. As I recall, the acid was left on for no more than 20-30 seconds. As soon as I had the connectors together and fired up the engine, my ammeter worked. Good luck, Gary 66 327/350Comment
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