Hey does the firewall side of the heater box need to be removed to get the interior side of heater box out? If yes, why?
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Re: C2 heater core removal
Joe:
No. But, the attaching studs are a part of the inner box. Once you remove the crimp nuts and the inner box, the outer box will probably fall away by its own weight, and the blower motor's weight. Unless, of course, there is a large amount of "sealant" of various types holding it in place.
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Re: C2 heater core removal
I just replaced my heater core and removed everything on both sides. I found that most of the holes the studs pass through on the outside box were cracked and needed to be repaired. I used JB Weld to repair the cracks and strengthen the areas, then painted the box. I also cleaned out the inside of the box as well as the blower motor, which had lots of dirt, sand and assorted crud inside and works much better now. Lastly, the seals all crumbled or tore when I removed the box, so they all got replaced. Heater and defroster work better than ever.Comment
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Re: C2 heater core removal
I'm about to go through this job on my 67 (no air) What needs to be removed on the interior? Glove box, side panels,seat. etc also did you need to replace the straps or can i expect to only replace the gaskets thanksComment
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Re: C2 heater core removal
Joe,
If your heater assy has never been removed, you may find that you have to first remove the engine side case. On the assy line, there was usually at least one thin stamped nut attached to one of the studs that held the inside heater assy in place before the outer case was installed. I would guess that after all these years, your heater core has already been replaced at least once so there is a good chance that the last guy left this retaining nut off. If you remove all of the engine side nuts and the inside assy still won't come out, you'll have to remove the engine side case.Comment
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Re: C2 heater core removal
In addition to the push-on "zip-nut" Michael mentioned (which was randomly used, depending on how the inside and outside guys worked together), don't forget the nut on the inside, on car centerline forward of the console, that retains the extreme inboard end of the inside heater case to the stud on the firewall; many folks forget it's there, and the inside heater case won't come out without removing it.Comment
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Re: C2 heater core removal
Howard:
Nice to see you here, and see you at the "Beach Bums" show on 8/14.
The 2 straps are steel rod, which will not have to be replaced. It is advisable to purchase a complete rebuild kit, which includes all of the seals and gaskets, and the necessary aluminum rivets, since complete rebuild involves drilling/removal of several rivets in order to open the inner box. Many folks stop short of separating the inner box. There is a diverter door inside, which cannot be accessed unless you remove the rivets and open the housing. While you've got it out of the car, now's the time to do it.!
Inside the car, the glove box MUST be removed. Removal of the right side seat is also a good idea. Use care when removing the "Y" duct from the housing, as it is delicate and easily broken (that is, if it is not broken already).
JoeComment
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Re: C2 heater core removal
Joe, thanks for the help I know it's a big job and was looking for the helpful hints Hopefully I'll see you before the August 14th show. Do you plan on attending the Atlantic City Show this Sunday May 22? George Kerbeck is sponsoring the show for the Central New Jersey Chapter Meet and for the Boardwal Corvette Club Shiney Show. Lots of celebrities attending from GM and NCRS see the flyer on the web http://www.kerbeck.com/kerbeck/kerbe...nform&id=cshowComment
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Re: C2 heater core removal
Howard:
Yes, I will. The weather looks very good, and I 'll bring the '85 to the show. The '65 is about 3 weeks from completion.
See you there. If you need any additional help, don't hesitate, as I've been there more than a few times.
Regards,
JoeComment
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Re: C2 heater core removal
I'm finally getting around to reassembling the heater box on my 63. Questions:
(1) What is the best adhesive to use for attaching the new foam pads to both sides of the air flapper door inside the heater box? 3M weatherstrip adhesive comes to mind; or maybe spray adhesive?
(2) There is another rectangular piece of foam (3" x 1" x 1/4"), the 'defroster shutoff seal'. Does it attach to the defroster shutoff door (if so, which side) or to the inside of the heater box?
(3) The rebuild kit came with small semi-tubular rivets for reattaching the metal cover to the fiberglass heater box case. Any idea on how to install these rivets? Do I need a special tool?
Thanks in advance for any advice and information.Comment
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Re: C2 heater core removal
Ken, Just a word of caution, if I may. Whatever adhesive you use, make sure it can withstand the heat that will be present in the heater box. I did this job several years ago and used the wrong adhesive, the adhesive became softened and the gasket slid down on the door. This effectively prevented the door from fully closing when heat was not required. Now, I have heat "all the time", just a dribble but still it's warm. Not a big catastrophe if you live in Michigan or Maine, but I live in Florida. Oh well, it makes me feel like I have a big block under the hood!
DonComment
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Re: C2 heater core removal
Thanks, Don, appreciate the advice.
At this point I'm leaning toward 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. The tech documentation shows it being good beyond 200 degrees F.
That oughta do it...Comment
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