I have another problem. Sorry, I have a lot of problems. The other day I was driving my '72 Lt-1 at night with the lights on. After about an hour of driving, the car abruptly quit, and would not re-start. It would crank weakly, but no start. I have done some work on the car over the winter. I had holley rebuld the carb and pulled things off, cleaned, and re-installed, etc. Anyway, When I got the car back to the house I threw a charger on it and went to bed. The next morning it fired right up. I started to trouble shoot. Two things I found. 1) I put a volt meter between the Alternator bat and ground and only saw around 12 volts. I thought maybe I had an alternator problem. I wiggled the field wires (the first option for shade tree mechanic). Low and behold the blk/wht wire going to the #2 terminal fell of in my hand. I pulled the plug and re-attached the wire. The volt meter now reads 14.75 volts and I see a deflection on the volt gauge when current is drawn (I did not see this before). Could this have caused my problem? I still had enough power to crank the motor weakly, I've never seen low voltage shut the motor off, no voltage yes, low voltage no. 2) Next as mentioned in my previous post, My choke was not opening all the way. Would this cause the motor to suddenly quit and not re-start when hot? I drove the car a lot last year, during the day, and never had a problem, but that was before the carb re-build. I get plenty of gas to the carb, so I don't thing the fuel pump is the problem, I've set the float levels and adjusted the idle mixture, what else should I look for?
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Re: Car Quit!!
Ross Might also be a flakey electrical connection. Mine would start and run fine for a while, but after it was hot, it would die when I hit the brakes. It turned out to be an intermittant ground connection at the battery post. -
Re: Car Quit!!
last time my vette (65 L76) quit like that (1 hour into the ride, on a warm summer evening, of course while in the center lane of stop and go traffic on I-95!) it was solved by replacing the coil - not an obviously broken thing, my guess was that it was malfunctioning upon hitting a certain operating temp, since low and behold, after the flatbed put me in my driveway (and after the thing had cooled down, of ocurse) the engine started right up. I swapped in a new, basic black coil (no need for wizbang colorful jobs) after soliciting advice here and elsewhere and checking all of the other things (black wire from coil to distrib secure at distrib? etc.) it was a likely, and easy/cheap, thing to try
just a thought to add to the possbilities.65 MM Convertible, L76 (365 hp)Comment
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Coil *NM*
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Re: Car Quit!!
Ross,
I worked on a friend's 67 that would not start/run when some accessories were turned on. The problem was loose/bad connections at the starter. High resistance in the electrical system can reduce voltage enough to cause problems with the ignition system.
VerleComment
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Re: Car Quit!!
I agree it is probably the coil, but something else to check is the slight chance the coil wire insulation having a cut and making contact to the ignition shielding. The short would cause the car to kill immediately. It would not restart as long as the wire made contact. The cooling of the engine might cause the wire to contract and no longer make contact to the shielding.
Something to check before a new coil.
Good Luck
GeneComment
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Re: Car Quit!!
Had a 74 that would just stop dead as I drove. Sometimes only cut out for an instant. Eventually found a break in a red wire on the drivers side of the engine going to the alternator.
Coil or distributor ground wire would be suspect.Comment
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