C2:67 Throttle Plate- Before/ After - NCRS Discussion Boards

C2:67 Throttle Plate- Before/ After

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  • Gerard F.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • June 30, 2004
    • 3803

    C2:67 Throttle Plate- Before/ After

    Thanks guys for all the tips on refinishing my throttle plate. I tried a number of products on it and it still maintained the dull gray finish. Here's what it looked like before:

    I found best way to clean it up was the simplest. First I dunked it in a Simple Green solution and scrubbed it to get all the loose stuff, and greases and waxes from the other products I put on it. Then dryed it with a terry cloth towel. Then I buffed it with a blue nylok wheel in a drill mounted in a vise. Then I cleaned out all the little crevices with Brasso and Q-Tips and buffed it again. Thank heavens I came home with 600 Q-Tips from Golden Gate, I was wondering what they were for.

    Here's how it came out (and below):

    Once I cleaned it up I noticed an interesting thing. The stamping of the carb number looks like a restamp. Oh no! But if you look closely at the stamping you'll see 3810 stamped twice. Once faintly and then above it more deeply, like someone missed the first time, and then got it right with the second shot:

    Another thing I noticed is the quality of the aluminum and machining of the original vs a new replacement throttle plate I was going to put on this carb.
    The original thottle metal has a more silvery look and probably has some different alloys mixed it the aluminum. It almost looks like a dense pot metal with almost zero casting flaws. The replacement metal look more like a light gray aluminum you see today with lots of little casting flaws. Probably too many Coors cans in it.

    So I'm going to reuse the original and probably throw out the replacement.

    Still having fun!

    Jerry Fuccillo
    #42179
    Attached Files
    Jerry Fuccillo
    1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968
  • Rob A.
    Expired
    • December 1, 1991
    • 2126

    #2
    LOOKS GREAT...NICE JOB *NM*

    Comment

    • Gerard F.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • June 30, 2004
      • 3803

      #3
      Re: LOOKS GREAT...NICE JOB

      Rob,

      I used that Eagle etching Mag cleaner. It loosened it crud up somewhat, but the final finish was with the nylok buffing. That mag cleaner is similar to Jasco Metal Etch, except it has a little hydrofluric and sulfuric acid in it along with the phosphoric.

      Now I've got to figure a way to replate and dichromate the steel vacuum nipples without screwing up the aluminum. Any suggestions.

      Jerry Fuccillo
      Jerry Fuccillo
      1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

      Comment

      • Rob A.
        Expired
        • December 1, 1991
        • 2126

        #4
        Re: LOOKS GREAT...NICE JOB

        Jerry,

        Hate to say it, but I think you'll have to remove them. Hopefully someone will come up with a solution. I have a brush that came with my electroplating kit for items that can't be removed, but as far as I know I can only use tin, zinc, etc., not the "goldish" color I think you are looking for. I guess if you could find the correct, dichromate anode material you could replate them in place.

        Comment

        • Gerard F.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • June 30, 2004
          • 3803

          #5
          Vacuum tube replating, remove or leave?

          Rob,

          The dichromate is just a dip after you plate with zinc or cad which I'm able to do. I think I'm going to try to mask all the aluminum and try to replate the side with the tubes without removing them. I'm not sure how easy it is to take the tubes out, and was afraid to try to remove them for fear of damaging the original base plate. Maybe someone who has taken them out can post and advise.

          Jerry Fuccillo
          Jerry Fuccillo
          1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

          Comment

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