C1 Water Pump Replacement

**Dennis C.** · May 28, 2005, 12:25 AM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

Bob - I need to go to bed, but will throw out a couple thoughts... Radiator will NOT need to come out. The hood CAN remain in place. There is very little pain in your future as far as replacing the water pump in concerned. Best Regards, Dennis

**Larry P.** · May 28, 2005, 05:42 AM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

Bob,
I just did this on my 60. The information I got from here was used with success.
Don't jack the engine using the pan. Use a brace to support the motor.
Remove the bolts on each side of the motor mount and support the motor just enough to take the weight off the water pump. Purchase 4 studs that match the threads on your water pump bolts. After you clean the block and water pump surface, check the support bracket and make sure it doesn't have any pitting.
I used JB weld to clean mine up. Install the studs so that you can align the gaskets, bracket, gaskets and water pump. Remove each stud and replace with the bolts. Use Permatex thread sealer on the bolts as they screw right into the water jackets of the block. Tighten them before you put any weight on it. As you drop the weight back down, insert the bolts back in and give the motor a 'jiggle' to let it set back where it belongs.
Good luck,
Larry

**Mark B.** · May 28, 2005, 06:45 AM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

Bob, I have done this twice now and feel I could do it in my sleep. The procedure is pretty much straightforward....remove the fan and water pump pulley, generator fanbelt and heater hose. Before removing the water pump support the engine. I've done this two ways and seen a third. I've used an engine hoist attached to the intake manifold with a lift plate and I've used two hydraulic bottle jacks (Wal-mart for cheap)under the engine block near the front edge of the oil pan. A third method is two build a wooden U-support that supports the engine under the oil pan flange with a floor jack. Just don't support the engine by the oil pan as it will deform. Any three will work fine, just make sure the emergency brake is set.

Next, I went to Home Depot or Lowes and picked up some Grade 8 bolts the same diameter and thread pitch as the water pump bolts. You can remove one from the engine for sizing and it won't hurt anything. Just don't remove two. The bolts I bought were 4-inches long. I cut off the heads with a hacksaw and then used my Dremel Tool to slot the ends for easy removal with a screwdriver. Once the engine is supported properly, loosen the water pump bolts and replace each one at a time with the slotted bolt shafts. Next, remove the engine support bolts on either side and remove the water pump and engine support. Examine the engine support bracket closely as pitting occurs around the water pump openings. If there is any pitting, junk it and get a new bracket. They're relatively cheap and most all vendors have them. Clean the front of the engine of all gasket material with a razor blade. If you're re-using the engine support bracket, do the same. For re-assembly, I always use "red" silicone sealant on all sides of gaskets and the parts. It is tenacious on clean surfaces and allows for some movement with no leaks. Install the gasket between the engine block and bracket with sealant and let it set until it cures. Do the same with the water pump. (As an option, I always chase the threaded holes with a tap to clean them and get rid of old sealer. It also provides for correct torque readings when tightening the bolts.) Apply sealant to the front of the engine/bracket gasket and install the bracket over the bolt shafts. Next, apply sealant to the gaskets on the water pump and slide it on. With the engine still supported by whatever means, remove each bolt shaft and install the correct water pump bolts into the block. Apply some sealant to the bolt threads after cleaning thoroughly. Do the water pump bolts one at a time so that alignment of everything stays in place. Tighten each bolt snug. After installing the water pump bolts and torquing to spec., tighten the engine support bolts and nuts and remove your support mechanisms. Install all accessories and you're done. Good luck.

**Ed Jennings** · May 28, 2005, 08:37 AM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

Use a little caution when jacking the front of the engine. If you get carried away, it's possible to jack the distributor cap into the firewall, damaging one or both. There is no need to raise the engine nearly this high, but just be aware of the possibility.

**Bob Canfora** · May 28, 2005, 10:01 AM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

thank you Ed...i hope that wasn't voice of experience speaking...bending a distributor or even busting the cap with or without knowing is just the kind of pain i am hoping to avoid...

**Bob Canfora** · May 28, 2005, 10:10 AM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

phew...the radiator remove and reinstall was very painful and i wouldn't have thought it would be...final tally was two broken bolts, 1/4" too much solder in the side tanks, three broken drill bits (one from each progressively more expensive drill bit set) and one broken easy out, hours with small grind stone to ever so slightly oval out mounting holes in radiator frame and forever "adjusting" shrouds to fit back over the holes...luckily i didn't have to have any stitches in the broken knuckles ...

**Bob Canfora** · May 28, 2005, 10:14 AM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

JB Weld...hmmm...sounds like some kind of paste or liquid to use to clean the surfaces...hope i can find it...i am sure i can find the Permatex thread stuff (or Form-a-Gasket or something comparable)...can't wait until i am jiggling the engine back in place...thanks Larry !!

**Christopher R.** · May 28, 2005, 10:29 AM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

JB Weld is epoxy with metal in it. Supposed to be just like adding metal to something. After it cures, grind it, drill it, tap into it, etc. Try your local hardware store.

**Bob Canfora** · May 28, 2005, 10:38 AM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

geez...i wish i could get you to sleep walk down to Tampa Bay area ...am on my way to parts store and i plan on swinging by Home Depot for matching 4-inch bolts...i haven't even looked at engine mounts but will remember to closely check the engine support bracket for corrosion...

as matter of fact, listed out each of the steps in your most excellent directions and have a 15 step list...everything on the list is exactly the kind of information to make me feel like i just might be able to do this...

except your mention of engine/bracket gasket...i have two chevy blue Fel-pro water pump mounting gaskets but no engine/bracket gasket...guess i will go back to retailer sites and search for them...and i think the torque on the water pump bolts may be 20-25 ft/lbs...can you remember that small a detail?...regardless, thanks a bunch for your insight...once water pump arrives will get started in earnest and post results...

ah...15-step list and one word of caution (see next post)...

**John H.** · May 28, 2005, 11:38 AM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

Bob -

The engine-to-bracket gasket is the same as the bracket-to-pump gasket; ordinary Chevy water pump gaskets, you just need four of them instead of two. Two on each side - one between the block and the back side of the bracket, and one between the front side of the bracket and the water pump.

**Ed Jennings** · May 28, 2005, 12:21 PM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

Folks are more apt to have that kind of issue installing an engine. You only need raise the front of the engine an inch or so to do what you need to do. Some people get carried away, so I thought I'd mention the possibility.

**Larry P.** · May 28, 2005, 12:59 PM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

I just want to make sure you understand that the JB Weld is just to fill the pits. Wait for it to dry and don't use it as a sealer if you ever want to remove anything again. Also, I got the studs at an auto parts store and didn't need to cut bolts. I think they are the same as a manifold stud.
LP

**Bob Canfora** · May 28, 2005, 06:32 PM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

heh...i would never have thunk it...but seems the water pump must not be mounted to block...the engine cross-mount is sandwiched between the pump and block...explains the need for four gaskets...also explains the need for cross mount to be smooth as glass and not pitted or corroded...and, as John said, key is two gaskets to each side...passenger side (is that left hand or right?...can never keep those straight) has heater hose and two bolts...drivers side has two bolts...top one is almost hidden under cross mount and bottom one is visible and will be my "go by" bolt to buy the studs or class 8 matching bolts...will prolly order the hose clamp tool while i am getting two more gaskets...those corbin type clamps are not easy to work with...using channel locks resulted in first ever visible spark when pliers slipped off clamp...thanks for clearing that up for me John...

**Christopher R.** · May 28, 2005, 08:37 PM

Re: C1 Water Pump Replacement

You don't need Grade 8 bolts to make into mounting studs. The mounting studs are temporary. Grade 8 is the strongest bolt you can get. Don't need it for temporary work. In fact, Grade 3 would be better, because they'd be easier to cut. This is not a major issue, though. Make sure you cut slots in where the bolt heads were. With the slots, you can turn the stud with a screwdriver. Someone mentioned cutting the slots with a Dremel tool. A hacksaw would also work.

C1 Water Pump Replacement

C1 Water Pump Replacement

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