Wayne, I have removed three different springs from mid-years and I always follow the GM chassis service maual procedure as you have described. In addition, there is an article in an older Restorer (by Ron Dombrowski -I think) on rear spring removal. It puts into practical terms what the shop manual describes. I use a small bottle jack to raise the outer arms of the spring. To keep the jack from slipping, I take my vice grips and clamp, very tightly, to the end of the spring. That gives the bottle jack enough resistance to keep it from slipping off the end of the spring. I have read several references, and used them, about usig a section of heavy chain to prevent the spring from flying down and doing serious damage should the jack slip. Make the chain just tight enough that the spring will lower, but not enough to go to the full length of the arch of the spring. I recently removed my 66 rear spring to replace the liners, and reinstalled it in one hour. It is not very difficult. Should you need that copy of the Restorer article, e-mail me, and I will scan it and e-mail it to you.
After Carlisle in August, I removed my differential for repairs. I did follow the instructions in the chassis service manual, The working space is VERY limited. I could only get one flat on the nut to turn, turn the wrench over and give another flat a turn. That part took forever. I had previously replaced all of the u-joints in my 66 without removing the front supporting bracket, so it can be done, although the working space is still very tight. I did not use the block of wood as suggested. Instead, I put my floor jack up snug against the pumpkin to keep it from rotating. Worked well. The only problem are that I encountered was in removing the rear crossmember from the car. The rubber bushings on the end of the rear crossmember were, more or less, united with the post that they were seated on. I used vast quantities of my favorite rust breaker, PB BLaster, and still could not get the rubber to release. Finally, I broke the seal that the rubber had on the metal by sticking a screwdriver tip down along the rubber and gently worked it around the entire rubber bushing. I still had to use a pry bar. When the rubber bushing came free, it did so almost violently. I stopped several times, thinking I must have forgotten a bolt or something. Good luck.
After Carlisle in August, I removed my differential for repairs. I did follow the instructions in the chassis service manual, The working space is VERY limited. I could only get one flat on the nut to turn, turn the wrench over and give another flat a turn. That part took forever. I had previously replaced all of the u-joints in my 66 without removing the front supporting bracket, so it can be done, although the working space is still very tight. I did not use the block of wood as suggested. Instead, I put my floor jack up snug against the pumpkin to keep it from rotating. Worked well. The only problem are that I encountered was in removing the rear crossmember from the car. The rubber bushings on the end of the rear crossmember were, more or less, united with the post that they were seated on. I used vast quantities of my favorite rust breaker, PB BLaster, and still could not get the rubber to release. Finally, I broke the seal that the rubber had on the metal by sticking a screwdriver tip down along the rubber and gently worked it around the entire rubber bushing. I still had to use a pry bar. When the rubber bushing came free, it did so almost violently. I stopped several times, thinking I must have forgotten a bolt or something. Good luck.
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