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i shot 3 coats of urethane on my vette last night....came out great except for the dust and junk that you always get when shooting at home in a garage. my question is this, i intend to color sand it and shoot one more wet coat on top of it, what grit paper would be best to color sand and prep for the final top coat?? thanks, rick
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Rick, Quite frankly, ...
...I'd wet sand with 2000 grit and then whip out the buffer, using a "swirl mark remover" grade of buffing compound, put the trim back on and take it for a spin... Best, Dennis -
Re: Rick, Quite frankly, ...
dennis, thanks for your response, and i'm sure you are right. the paint is nice enough to sand and buff at this point, however i wanted to get some clear on the car in the final top coat process, so i feel like i still want to shoot it one more time. i know i shouldn't sand it with too fine of paper, but not sure what grit to go with. probably 600-800??Comment
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Rick, Quite frankly, ...
...I'd guess you could go with a 400 grit to knock down the high spots, then finish 600. The type of paint you are using will fill any sand scratches. Suggest fogging the whole body with a contrasting rattle can color - a "guide coat" - then start with the 400 and take it down where most of the "measles" are gone. Do the whole car this way, then go back with the 600 to lose, and therefore level, all the paint. There are hundreds of opinions on painting, so keep in mind, this is only one. Best, DennisComment
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Re: paint question.....
Rick, I just finished doing a similar process on a hood, except that it was two coats of single-stage urethane. A third coat was to be mixed 50/50 with clear. PPG's Tech Service recommended carefully sanding with 1000 grit to remove the boogers, taking off as little as possible of the second coat. My situation was a little different than yours in that I needed two good color coats with the third coat using 50% clear.
I hate to disagree with Dennis, but I think 400/600 is a little coarse. I used 400 to sand my primer surfacer, and must have bad technique, because I could still see sanding marks after a sealer coat and two color coats. The only thing the coarser paper gets you is speed and ease of sanding.
To prep for the final coat, I would use nothing coaser than 800, maybe 1000 grit. Try to level it perfectly...it will be your last opportunity. I started sanding my third coat today with 1500; eventhough the hood has been painted about three weeks, sanding doesn't require that much effort. It has some "fisheye" in it (@#*&%$)...I have to decide if it will sand out enough to be acceptable after polishing (after all, it IS a truck) or go with 1000 and put another coat on it. I am trying to identify the source of the fisheye...I think it was the tack rag...I have never had much luck using tack rags.
BTW, boogers and dirt...it is the nature of the beast...In frustration, my buddy likes to say that he used to do paint jobs in his driveway that looked better than those coming out of his $5K paint booth.Comment
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Re: paint question.....
I'm no paint expert but my car is in the paint shop right now and just got sprayed on Thrusday.
my painter shot 3 coats of base color, wetsanded, and shot the final color coats before shooting the clear.
He still needs to do final wetsanding and buffing.
the wetsanding between the color coats was done with 1200 grit paper and the final wetsanding will also be done with 1200 grit I believe.
If you have any metallic in your paint at all, do not wetsand between the last color coat and the clear as this will mess up the paint because of how the metallic lays in the paint.
my car was sprayed in a paint booth and it still ended up with a few small "nibs" from dust specks and a little orange peel but it's all in the clear coat and will come out with the final wetsanding.
hope this helps a littleComment
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