C2 Rotor Rivets?

[Mike Swanson]

I am in the process of replacing calipers, hoses, lines, rotors.

I have attached a picture of a typical rotor I am replacing. Each rotor has 5 rivets, do these need to be drilled out in order to remove the rotors?

What is the best way to do this?

Thanks as usual for all your assistance.

Mike

[mike cobine]

Re: C2 Rotor Rivets?

Yes, you have to drill out the rivets. The best way is a drill right in the center, but I can't remember if it is a 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch bit.

However, why do you want to replace the rotors?

The rotors and the spindles are machined as a unit, and when you remove them, the rotor/hub alignment can become all wrong and the runout can become excessive. This pumps the pistons in and out to pump air into the system and give you a real headache on your brakes.

Unless the rotors are scarred severely, pitted severely, or worn out, why bother?

[Mike Swanson]

Re: C2 Rotor Rivets?

Mike,

Thanks!! Great point. I didn't realize that they were machined as a unit.

The rotors are all in perfect condition, no grooves or hot spots. The parking brake works great too. The car has 50,000 miles on it and it is VERY original. I purchased a complete brake set with lines, hoses, rotors, and calipers so I figured that I would replace everything. My rear calipers were frozen so I had no back brakes and it was REALLY unsafe to drive at all.

Thanks again...you just saved my a couple days of work. It was bad eonough getting the damned caliper mounting bolts out. What a bear!! Thank god for PB Blaster in multiple doses.

As usual, I appreciate all the help and advice I get from this board. What a bunch of Pros.

Mike

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 Rotor Rivets?

Mike-----

It's hard to tell from the photos, but if the rear rotors are in good condition, as you say, then you ABSOLUTELY DON'T want to replace them. Even if they have a little light scoring, that's ok and you should just leave it alone. You should check them for thickness. If they're within spec (as they very likely will be), just leave them be. New thickness is 1.250 and I'll bet that yours will come in very close to that. You will open up a HUGE can of worms by removing them and replacing them. 1965-82 Corvette rotors SHOULD NEVER, EVER BE REPLACED AS A MATTER OF ROUTINE. This should only occur when someone FOOLISHLY allows the brake pads to wear to the point of metal-to-metal or if someone uses agressive brake pads that wear the rotor to below minimum SERVICE thickness.

You can obtain a 3M brake rotor surfacing kit at better auto parts stores. With this kit and a hand drill, you can "break the glaze" on the rotors and re-establish the required non-directional finish. That's it. That's all you need to do. It's quite easy to do with this kit, too.

[Eugene B.]

Re: C2 Rotor Rivets?

Mike,
You mentioned that your car is very original. You also mentioned that you purchased new calipers, etc.

If the calipers that are on the car are the originals, why not have them rebuilt and put them back on the car? This is the route I chose on my original '65. There are rebuilders out there that will sleeve your calipers and return them to you. Lonestar in TX did mine.

Good luck with your project.

Regards,
Gene

[Mike Swanson]

Re: C2 Rotor Rivets?

Ok, You guys convinced me completely to leave them alone. I checked thickness and they are 1.254 rear, 1.223 front. I am going to get the 3M rotor resurfacing kit today as Joe suggested.

Gene, as far as the calipers go. I bought correct Delco Moraine 67 castings and had them S/S sleeved. I may just keep the origs and have them redone as well. One that I took off the front seems to be a replacement from SSBC.

The brake pads I got with the kit are semi-metallic, bonded pads. The pads I took off are riveted. Any opinions on which pads to use?

Thanks again for helping me avert a potential PITA brake problem.

Mike

[John H.]

Re: C2 Rotor Rivets?

Mike -

Ordinary OEM organic pads will work just fine, and won't eat your rotors like the metallics will; pedal pressure will also be less with the organic pads than with metallics, if you have manual brakes. Corvette rotors will last virtually forever with OEM organic pads.

[Mike Swanson]

Re: C2 Rotor Rivets?

Thanks John,

I had the same impression on semi-metallic vs. organic pads. I will be getting some organic pads and trash the semi-metalllic. If anyone wants them let me know. I also have a set of new rotors now in case anyone absolutely has to replace their rotors. Otherwise, you'll be seeing them on Ebay soon.

I would really ike to thank everyone for their advise. It seems that I spent a lot of extra money for the complete brake rebuild set when all I really needed was the calipers.

Mike

[mike cobine]

Re: C2 Rotor Rivets?

Semi-metallics should always be in your toolbox as a quick brake fix. When that car sits for 6 months in winter and the rotors have rusted, you drop them in, take a couple of miles SLOW ride (you won't have much for brakes - rust acts like a lubricant), and go home and put the good pads back in on the nice clean fresh rotors.

[Eugene B.]

Re: C2 Rotor Rivets?

Mike,
Thanks for the tip. I got a set of semi-metallic pads with my refurbished calipers, but wasn't going to run them. I did not resurface the rotors.

Sounds like I can put the semis on for a gentle drive to "condition" the rotors and then put the organics back on for normal driving.

Regards,
Gene