Joe Lucia C3 (72) Buzzer - NCRS Discussion Boards

Joe Lucia C3 (72) Buzzer

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  • Rob C.
    Expired
    • August 31, 2004
    • 144

    Joe Lucia C3 (72) Buzzer

    Joe, Thank you again. I found both buzzers. The seat belt buzzer the guts were taken out. Easy fix. The key buzzer was fine. the only way I could get it to work was to ground it out. After putting the dash all back to gather I found hanging down by the gas padel a junction block with one wire cut. Well that wire went to the buzzer. Put the key in and tuched the wires togather and presto it worked but when I took the key out it still worked. What is wrong? Any sugestions?
    Thank you Rob
  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • February 1, 1988
    • 43193

    #2
    Re: Joe Lucia C3 (72) Buzzer

    Rob-----

    I'm afraid I don't have an answer for that one. One of the "electrical guys" here might, though.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • Tracy C.
      Expired
      • July 31, 2003
      • 2739

      #3
      electrical guys = sparkies *NM*

      Comment

      • Harmon C.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • August 31, 1994
        • 3228

        #4
        Re: Joe Lucia C3 (72) Buzzer

        The lock cylinder has a plastic lever and a switch in the column. The drivers door switch may also control when the buzzer works. This is all covered in the service manual. Lyle
        Lyle

        Comment

        • Mike M.
          Expired
          • April 30, 2003
          • 104

          #5
          Re: Joe Lucia C3 (72) Buzzer

          I had the same problem with my '72 and ended up replacing the key warning switch in the steering column. The body of the original switch appeared to be clear styrene and had literally disintegrated. Grounding the connection completes the circuit. So any failure of the switch body will usually cause the switch to ground and the buzzer to operate. I bought a new switch from Dr. Rebuild and fixed the problem. The new switch appeared to be made of ABS rather than plain styrene thus should be more durable. Also, the switch for the tilt-tele column is different from that used in the standard column and is getting more difficut to find.
          Mike

          Comment

          • Jack H.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • April 1, 1990
            • 9906

            #6
            Mike has it!

            The key minder warning switch was originally packaged in a clear plastic housing. Over the years, these switches sitting inside the column tend to 'cook' with sun beating on the column (especially true of convertibles and coupes driven with T-top removed). When the warning switch's plastic housing lets go, the switch fails either open circuit or closed circuit meaning you get NO buzzer action or you get continuous buzzer action.

            Also, as Joe said, the ignition switch cylinder has a plastic 'tit' that extends outward when the key is inserted. This contacts the warning switch to close it and complete the circuit. Over time/use the plastic 'tit' can wear and fail to automatically retract when the key is removed.

            To find out which problem you have (possibly both), you need to remove the steering wheel and delve into the upper column. Your copy of the Chassis Service Manual gives step-by-step instruction for how to get to the key minder warning switch as well as how to remove the ignition switch from the column. Good luck!

            Comment

            • Rob C.
              Expired
              • August 31, 2004
              • 144

              #7
              Re: Mike has it!

              Thank you guys, I read the service manual and found that if my door is open the buzzer works but when the door is closed it shuts off.

              Comment

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