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I'm contemplating two repairs, the first to replace the ignition lock cylinder, the second, to get the key buzzer to work. The current cylinder lock is incorrect (accepts an "A" key) and has alot of horizontal sloppy play in it (a good 1/4"). The key buzzer operates properly under all the appropriate situations, however, it requires an outward (pulling) tension on the key/cylinder to make it buzz. I've never worked on this particular area of a Corvette before, however, I've successfully worked on removing door panels, taking out consoles and dashes, installing radios, replacing exhaust, etc. Based on other's past experience, is this something that's best handled by an experienced mechanic? I've read the Chassis Service Manual and can follow directions...however, between some of the details, and my lack of any previous experience in this area, I'm having some reservations? Are there any similar past experiences out there that I may learn a lesson from? As I've often heard, "experience is the best teacher, but I recommend you know one". Thanks.
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Re: '74 Steering Column
Hi Ray,
Hopefully this idea my help, may not be your problem but I learned this from many years of experience with ignition and door locks.The keys could be a little worn. You can take your keys to the GM parts counter and the boys should be able to read the bumps on the keys and bring out their ancient key cutter. They'll make you a new set for just a couple of bucks, or sometimes they might give them for free.
Now that you have new keys they will fit properly. Remember they can't be cut on a regular drug store cutter, or it will not work. Because the keys are cut properly, when you put them in the tumbler the ignition should BUZZZZZ like it did when brand new.
Ken. -
Re: '74 Steering Column
Ken,
I recently had a set of keys made on GM blanks by a fellow NCRS member (specializing in key reproductions). My original intent was to obtain two new sets with knock-outs. During the process, he advised me that I had an ignition lock cylinder from a '75...hence the "A" stamped ignition key. We proceeded to have a lengthly conversation related to various options, for which I elected to hold off and eventually install a new cylinder with the correct keyway. He generously made me a new set of GM keys (without the knock outs) and sent them to me. Eventually, we'll be connecting again to complete what we both originally started out to accomplish. Since that time, I've learned about the unique workings of the BUZZER along with the fact that I could never seem to access the ACCESSORY position. To access the ACCESSORY position now requires some fidgeting, which eventually results in locating just the right position (note my comment above about the 1/4" horizontal play in the cylinder)for it to turn backwards. There's also some delay or improper contact being made somewhere along the lines here when you turn the key to the ON/RUN position. There are times when the connection is instant (illuminating one of the appropriate dash lights), or for allowing you to operate the power windows before the car is started, while at other times, you have to turn the key back and forth from OFF to ON (usually just once), and then the proper contact/connection is made. I'm wondering if a portion of my problem here involves the movement of the rod and rack that's connected with the Ignition Switch Assembly? In any event, thank you for your insight. I plan to bring this thread to the attention of the person who made the set of GM keys for me...I'm interested in his thoughts as well as those from any others who've had a similar experience.
Thanks again,
RayComment
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Tips...
(1) When you follow the CSM to remove the lock cylinder, first remove the key minder warning switch so the lock cylinder doesn't 'saw' against it on the way out of the column.
(2) In removing the key minder switch, do NOT pull on the switch itself as orignals from the era were packaged in a clear plastic housing that's susceptible to becoming brittle and fatigue fracture.
(3) Remove the switch by pulling on the metal 'holder' it rests in.
(4) Use an L-shaped hand pick to get under the metal holder's upper rolled edge and pull smoothly up & out.
(5) Do NOT become distracted during this operation as you could wind up with the metal clip flying off the key minder switch and falling down inside the column (that's an AW(*&! happenstance).
(6) Those of us with '71 Sharks just might prize the A-keyway ignition lock you're about to throw away since it doesn't match your car/year!
(7) When you find the correct replacement lock cylinder, oftentimes you'll find its factory original key code embossed on the outside. Record it for posterity and consider using it to have a matching key cut from code UNLESS you're going to re-code the replacement ignition to match your existing door locks as there's nothing better than freshly cut keys that EXACTLY match the tumbler/wafer configuration of the lock itself...Comment
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Re: Tips...
Jack,
Thank you for the "Tips". Number 5 is exactly where my reservations seem to heighten. In finding the correct replacement lock cylinder...and with NCRS judging guidlines in mind, is this a search to be made within the Corvette bone yards, or is it as simply as placing an order from page 170 in Doc Rebuild's Volume 29 catalog?
Thanks for your help...
RayComment
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Re: Tips...
You simply need a correct Briggs & Stratton (now StraTech) ignition lock for your column with the appropriate keyway coding (lock tumblers can be switched by any competent locksmith to match your key. What you want to watch out for is a generic aftermarket (vs. Briggs) lock and you do NOT want one that's got a 'universal' keyway (accepts any key blank you throw at it).
If you're into used, you can get one from a scrap yard from any GM passenger car of the same year (or 5-years ahead/5-years back) that's using the same generic steering column (tilt-tele if your Corvette has that column, or non-tele if your Corvette has that column). If you're timid about pulling a lock from a scrap yard (used might mean worn), then you can go to an 'expert' in the field like Jessup's who specializes in this stuff and advertizes in the SERVICES section of Driveline...Comment
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