Help-squealing and binding rear wheel-C2

[Darwin Kuhlmann]

Took my 66 out and about 1 mile latter I heard a squealing and grinding coming form the driver side rear wheel with binding of the wheel. Got home and took the wheel off. I can reproduce the binding and grinding by manually turning the wheel hub. Doesn't bind all the time but it seems as though there is something(rock,broken part etc.)that is loose and tumbles between the parking brake shoe and the drum. I set the parking brake and it seems to work, with tension in the cable and the wheel hub bound up.
Is there a way I can check out the possibility of something binding between the shoe and the drum without taking the disk off? Mine are still riveted on.
If not, how do I drill out the rivets? And what is the process involved?
Any suggestions or thoughts are greatly welcomed.

Darwin

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Help-squealing and binding rear wheel-C2

It's possible that ypu have a loose piece of parking brake hardware inside the rotor. It's also quite possible that you have a wheel bearing failure. I guess if the binding temporarily goes away, it's more likely loose hardware. In either case, you're going to have to get the rotor of to see. If you don't want to drill out the rivets, the alternative is to remove the spindle. That takes some special tools, or if you can remove the T/A, you can use a press to get the spindle out.
Personally, I'd drill the rivets out of the rotor and see what the problem was before pulling the beearing or sending the T/A off to a rebuilder. If you want your rotor solidly attached to the spindle, you can reattach with some socket head cap screws (after countersinking the rotor and tapping the rivet holes).

[Darwin Kuhlmann]

Re: Help-squealing and binding rear wheel-C2

Ed,
Thanks. What would you suggest I use to drill out the rivets? Will a hand power drill work and what size bit would I work up to? I don't know how big the rivet hole is in relation to the rivet head. Also, will just the lug nuts attach the rotor and hub adequately. ( I have repro K.O.'s).

[Gary S.]

Re: Help-squealing and binding rear wheel-C2

There is a ton of stuff in the archives on drilling out these rivets. The gist of it is to center punch teh rivet and then drill a small hole into the rivet head. Gradually increase the drill bit until you can just knock the rivet loose.

Gary

[Darwin Kuhlmann]

Thanks, Gary I will check the archives *NM*

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Thanks, Gary I will check the archives

The actual rivet hole is 5/16". Just by coincidence, if you want to tap the holes for a 3/8-16 screw, 5/16 is the proper hole size for a 3/8 tap.

[Darwin Kuhlmann]

Re: Thanks, Gary I will check the archives

Ed thanks,
It sounds like I don't need to revit or attach the rotor except by the lug nuts. Though there could be an issue with excessive run out, that could be minimized by indexing the rotor to the spindle as I understand it.
I found a how to do it article in the archives at: http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair.html

http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair.html

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Thanks, Gary I will check the archives

This approach will certainly work and there are many Corvettes on the road today fixed just like this. There are those who believe that the rotor must be firmly attached to the spindle and that anything less is unacceptable. Ideally, the rotor is attached (riveted) to the spindle and then runout is checked with the two parts as a unit.

In practice, the lug nuts will do teh job most of the time. If the face of the spindle is not perfectly square with the shaft, then you may have a runout problem. Attach with some lugs and check the runout. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Teh roor will only fit in one position and still line up the adjusting holes.

[Rob A.]

Re: Help-squealing and binding rear wheel-C2

Darwin,

I had similar symptoms and swore it was something in the parking brake assembly. The sounds I had were very much like yours. I could duplicate the noise by rotating the wheel as well. I could have sworn it sounded like a spring binding, and then releasing. It seemed like each time I adjusted the parking brake the noise went away, temporarily. I drilled out the rotor rivets and removed it to examine the parking brake assembly. Everything was fine, but I replaced the springs anyway, with the hub still in place. The noise returned. It got worse while driving and eventually I felt the wheel dragging and smoke appeared from the the wheel bearing area. I had to remove the trailing arm and have the bearing replaced. Before you take the time and energy to drill the rivets and remove the rotor, have someone familiar with mid-years look at it and tell you if it's the wheel bearing.

[Darwin Kuhlmann]

Re: Help-squealing and binding rear wheel-C2

Rob, thanks
I might try adjusting the parking brake and see if it helps. Was your noise constant. Mine is not and seems to come and go with and without binding of the spindle and rotor. It could be the bearings. Right now it is not drivable and I would have to remove the control arm and spindle rotor assemby and take it to someone to look at.

[Rob A.]

Re: Help-squealing and binding rear wheel-C2

Darwin,

I had the exact sounds and symptoms as you have. There are some repair shops that have a tool to remove the spindle without removing the trailing arm assembly. Unfortunately mine got to the point of not being driveable as I mentioned. From what I experienced, I would be very surprised if it is not the wheel bearing. My car had 81,000 original miles when this happened. If you happen to be in S. Califormia, I can recommend a great mechanic that can do the repair properly, in one day. Good Luck...

[Darwin Kuhlmann]

Re: Help-squealing and binding rear wheel-C2

Rob,
Iam begining to think wheel bearing too. I inspected the parking brake components as much as I could through the inspections holes and everything appears to be in place, with the brake working when applied. My car has just under 80,000 miles. I also remember a while back hearing a groan or grind when I went around a long left hand curve. I am in Colorado, but appreciate the offer. Thanks,
Darwin

[Rob A.]

Re: Help-squealing and binding rear wheel-C2

Although it's no big deal, I was sorry that I drilled out the rivets to remove the rotor, and found out it was nothing in the e-brake assembly. I like to leave things original, when possible. I have, however, experienced no problems with the rotor which is now held on with the wheel lug nuts. If you've already drilled out your rivets, they are still available from Long Island, if you want to replace them. Some of the more "corvette experienced" repair shops have a press they can install them with, if and when they replace the wheel bearing.

[Darwin Kuhlmann]

Re: Help-squealing and binding rear wheel-C2

Rob, I didn't get to the point of drilling out the rivets. I have begun to remove the trailing arms. Any suggestions or problems to look out for?
Darwin

[Rob A.]

Re: Help-squealing and binding rear wheel-C2

Darwin,

You might want to put some penetrating oil, or whatever you like to use on the brake line(s) fittings before you disconnect them. Let it sit over night, so you won't end up stripping it trying to remove it. Other than that, the easiest sequence is the spring attachment point, shock, strut, half shaft, brake line, pivot bolt. If they haven't been replaced, this is a good time to replace the rubber cushions that attach the spring to the trailing arm. I just did this recently, so let me know if I can help with anything. As I mentioned, there are shops that can replace the bearings without removing the arms, if you don't mind the cost of the tow...then again...you'll save quite a bit removing the trailing arm(s) yourself. Good Luck...