Since I have 2 sets of wheels, 1 for bias tires and 1 for radial tires and don't have a lift. Can I or is it possible to jack the vette up in the center of the frame so front and back wheels can be changed at the same time? This of course is after you find the balanced center point. Can any damage occur if doing this? I typically crack the doors when jacking my vette up to help with twisting if it occurs. Thanks for any advise.
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Re: C-2 Jacking
Hi Don
If you refer to the service manual for your vehicle It does not recomend raising the vehicle in the middle of the frame between the front and rear axle. Personally I would not crack open the doors either. When raising a vette at home with no lift I use a floor jack and a piece of 2x4 on the cradle position the jack under the rear axle (third member) and rise the two rear wheels at once. For the front I position the jack under the front cross member.
Less stress for the vehicle.
David -
Re: C-2 Jacking
David - jacking under the front crossmember is not a good idea if you want to avoid damage to the steel plate welded to the bottom. It is not structural and dents in......in fact, someone made a tool to straighten them out as many folks use this as an easy jacking point....CraigComment
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Re: C-2 Jacking
no problem jacking up one side at a time.get center point, about where your knees would be in the driving position. i'd leave the doors closed, especially if its a convert. and/or soft frame. good luck, mikeComment
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Re: C-2 Jacking
I witnessed judges at Hershey a few years back raise vehicles via the center of the frame..one of which was a pristine 67 big block.
So I'd say its safe to raise a a vehicle that manner.
In fact I began to do so with my 68 BB convertible with no know issues.Comment
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Re: C-2 Jacking
No problems (including dents) over the years jacking my SWC up by the front cross member, the rear strut rod bracket, or the frame side rail at the intersection of the center cross member.
Keep in mind that my SWC is, of course, a coupe, with the birdcage bolted solidly to the frame, so it is inherently stiffer than converts. and stiffer than the '64-up coupes that have rubber bushings in the body mounts. Either way I would leave the doors CLOSED since they add stiffness when latched.
Also, I ALWAYS, repeat, ALWAYS use a soft wood block on the jack puck like a 4" long piece of pine 2x4. If you use a typical floor jack puck without something soft between it an the lift point I GUARANTEE that you will bend metal!!!
DukeComment
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Re: C-2 Jacking
Thanks everyone. I thought I was helping by leaving the doors ajar but I guess I was doing the opposite. I do use a piece of neoprene fiber reinforced rubber pad like used in parking garages construction for on my jack end. I can't jack under the rear end because my jack is to high to fit under unless the tire carrier is out. I don't jack under the front center because someone else already dented it. I thought mayby under side center may do the trick when changing wheels. I may give it a try and watch closely if I occur any dents. As usual I appreciate all the comments and help.Comment
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Re: C-2 Jacking
Don,
When I needed to jack up my '67, I used an old, '69 corvette jack I had. It is wider in the saddle area and more sturdy in general than the '67 and fits the frame shape well.Comment
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