Happy 4th! I parked my '65 a couple of weeks ago, and when I went to start it yesterday the battery was dead. I put a 2 amp charger on it, and when I came back to try it a couple of wierd things happened: 1) when I turned the key to the "on" position a very loud humming noise came from the radio speaker---2) when key was turned to the "start" position nothing happened---3) when I looked under the hood the capasitor was very hot to the touch, as was some of the wiring--- I disconnected the battery and let everything cool down. After I reconnected the battery I found the lowest fuse in the fuse box (25 amp) was blown. When I replaced this fuse there was a current draw (small spark) and the fuse got hot (very fast)--so I disconnected the battery again. This is where I am now, disconnected batery and no ideas. The engine/electrial system had been performing perfectly until this incident. Any ideas? Thanks, g.
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Re: Electrical problem '65 FI w/o unit installed
George I looked at my 64 Corvette service manual and although your car is a 65, I wanted to see where a 25 ampere fuse would go in the fuse panel. Biggest ampere fuses listed is a 30 ampere for high blower speed, and a 20 ampere for air conditioning. The next one is a 15 ampere for the stoplight and courtsesy or dome lamps. What does your owners manual list for the location of the bown fuse you mentioned? The headlight circuit is protected by a 15 ampere circuit breaker. The headlamp motor circuit and power window circuit are protected by separate 40 ampere circuit breakers. I would start testing the components that the burned out fuse protects. The unusual thing is that it was okay when your parked it. Perhaps a mouse chewed into some wiring since you parked it. -
Re: Electrical problem '65 FI w/o unit installed
I'm sure there are numerous theories on this one. But I'm going to go out on a limb here. Any chance that is a non-original / repro speaker? A speaker with the wrong impedence can cause this to occur over time. And it is known that the current reproduction speakers do not generally have the correct impedence. My car had a fried under-dash wiring harness when I first got it caused by a previous owner installing an incorrect after market (not a repro) speaker.
PeteComment
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Re: Electrical problem '65 FI w/o unit installed
The 25 amp fuse was installed in the Stop, License, Courtesy, Dome Light slot of the fues box----the very bottom slot in the box. My manual calls for a 20 amp fuse to be used here. The mouse thought is possible, but I rather doubt it, as I have a cat and have have never had any mouse problems in the five years in this location. It is curious that this problem seems to have happened "out of the blue". Please keep the comments/suggestions coming, and I will attempt to eliminate one thing at a time. Thanks, G.Comment
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Re: Electrical problem '65 FI w/o unit installed
Ok, so I thought I'd try another battery. When I connect the battery leads, the amp meter goes towards the neg. (dis-charging) side about 1/2 way(this is an immediate occurance). Absolutly nothing electrical is working, and the same fuse is getting hot, but no other fuses or wires are hot (warm to the touch). G.????Comment
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Re: Electrical problem '65 FI w/o unit installed
George,
Try disconnecting the alternator. You may have a shorted diode which can cause this problem. Worth a try.Comment
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Re: Electrical problem '65 FI w/o unit installed
John, I'll try that next. I have since removed the Courtesy lamp fuse and re-hooked the battery. With this fuse out, everything is working again---lights, heater blower,starter, radio, etc.? But now the radio is on, even if the knob is in the off position---the knob does control the volumm, but does not turn the unit off? And now the capisitor on the fire wall is getting hot again? After I disconnect the alternator and test, I will try to go through the Courtesy fuse wiring. Thanks, g.Comment
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Re: Electrical problem '65 FI w/o unit installed
George -
That fuse feeds the courtesy and dome lights, glove box light, clock, and brake light switch; one of those circuits apparently has a short to ground. The radio is a separate issue - has to be the on-off switch inside the radio, as the radio gets power any time the key is "on". The ballast resistor on the firewall will get VERY hot if the engine is off and the key is "on" and the points are closed; that's what the "accessory" position is for - feeds power to everything the "on" position does, EXCEPT the ignition system.Comment
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Re: Electrical problem '65 FI w/o unit installed
Sounds like a short in stop lites / feel sender/signals. One 20a fuse. I had same problem. except no radio problem. I worked/seperated the rear wires & cleaned contacts. Radio is seperate. Don't worry capacitor. Leave key to ass. or off.Comment
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Re: Electrical problem '65 FI w/o unit installed
John, thanks for the tip on the capasitor---I remember that now that you mention it. I have the car running again, and all seems ok except for the courtesy lamp fuse items since I have that fuse removed. Can anyone offer some tips on checking for the direct short I have with this circuit? Big thanks to all, G.Comment
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Re: Electrical problem '65 FI w/o unit installed
Disconnect the connection at the drivers side kick panel located up by the hood release, then replace your fuse and see if the draw has changed. If it is still there, you problem is in the IP area, if it goes away, you have a short in the harness to the rear.Bill Clupper #618Comment
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Good input, Clup...
But, I question the rationale of trying to talk a guy who doesn't know the difference between a capacitor and a resistor (there is no capacitor on the engine compartment firewall!) through electrical troubleshooting. In my book, he's in over his head and needs to find a qualified auto electric shop to track and fix the problem(s)...Comment
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