I am going to remove my 66' rear end cover to replace what looks to be in need of a fresh gasket(yoke seals and drive shaft seals are dry). I was wondering do I need to drop the whole rear end to get the cover off? If I can remove the cover leaving the rear end in place, how do I get at the top 2 bolts holding the cover that are across from the crossmember braket? What do I need to remove and in what order?
66' rear end cover removal
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Re: 66' rear end cover removal
M. Nehra----
Some folks access these upper differential carrier cover bolts by cutting a hole in the rear compartment floor. As far as I know, that's the only way to get at them, but I DEFINITELY don't recommend this approach. Actually, it's not all that difficult to just remove the entire differential assembly from the car. Remove the driveshaft, front differential mount "snubber" bolt, the two half shafts, the rear spring, and the strut rod bracket. Then, remove the two bolts, one on either side, that secure the removeable rear crossmember end cushions to the frame "sombrero" brackets, having previously supported the differential carrier with a good size floor jack. Then, if necessary(and it probably will be) wedge a long crowbar between the removeable crossmember and the welded-in one immediately behind it, and pry mightily to get the cushions free from their "sombrero: bracker seats. Then, lower the differential carrier assembly.
This may sound like a lot of work, but you have to remove about half of the parts just to get to the rear cover, assuming that you could remove it without lowering the entire carrier. In the process of removing the other parts you can use the opportunity to check for wear. I would stongly recommend replacing the half-shaft u-joints at this time. The front differential mount "snubber" bushings MUST be replaced.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: 66' rear end cover removal
I agree with Joe, its much easier to remove the whole thing and you won`t get all that trans. oil on you and the floor. You can do the pinion seal at the same time. One thing I do differently though. I just back off the two support bolts, but let them hold on with a few threads. Then I don`t have to support the rear assembly while prying on the support. After it is loose you can support it and remove the bolts.- Top
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Re: 66' rear end cover removal
I redid the rear in my 69 this winter. I soaked the sombrero bushings for days with penetrating oil...got the bolts out easily. After beating and prying for many hours on the crossmember, using breaker bars and air chisels, nothing would move. I finally removed the rear with the crossmember in the car. I was able to get to the 4 differential bolts using a 3/8 drive breaker bar and a 6 point socket. After I got them loose, I removed them with a ratchet. It was more of a problem to do it this way, but it worked. After the rear was rebuilt, reinstallation was tough, but a friend and I had it back in the car in about 2 hours. It is difficult working on your back, reaching over the crossmember, and groping down into the "hole" to get to the bolts, but it can be done. Chuck1963 Corvette Conv. 327/360 NCRS Top Flight
2006 Corvette Conv. Velocity Yellow NCRS Top Flight
1956 Chevy Sedan. 350/4 Speed Hot Rod- Top
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Re: 66' rear end cover removal
I got the differential crossmember free on my 69 by soaking the bushings in a penetrating oil, loosening the bolts but leaving them in place (about half way out) and laying one cold chisel on top of the rear-most part of the crossmember with the point facing toward me and then driving another cold chisel (point facing away from me) between the upper fixed frame and the other cold chisel (lever/wedge effect) while prying on the forward side of the crossmember with a large pry bar. Worked great!- Top
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Re: 66' rear end cover removal
Bill----
Yes, and it's such a SWEET moment when the cushions sperate from the sombrero brackets. Makes all of the effort worth it. I've found, though, that a LONG, STIFF crowbar(about 4-5 feet long and at least 1-1/4" in diameter wedged between the removeable and welded-in crossmember will usually provide enough leverage to break the cushions free of the sombrero brackets.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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