Painting of a 1693-SWC

[Ray C.]

I know that there are many postings in the archives on this topic, but I wanted to re-post this topic and see if I can come to a consensus on the best process for painting a Corvette in one posting. The 63 has had some minor body work to two fenders. I have all the plastic filler removed from the repairs and will shortly be in the process of straightening the bodylines in these areas.

At the recommendation of my paint supplier I called the PPG Tech center on the correct process for preparing the body for lacquer paint. The representative from PPG recommended gel coating the entire body if it has been stripped to the bare fiberglass. Then applying a PPG K-36 primer. If the body panels and repairs were smooth enough there would be no need for a high build primer.

Any recommendations or old tricks would be appreciated!
Ray #36314

[Tom B.]

Re: Painting of a 1693-SWC

Hi Ray,

I know that picture. This should open the gel coat debate again. As far as I'm concerned GM didn't use it and you don't need it either. If K-36 is a good epoxy primer that should do it by it'self, especially considering the condition of your car's body.

Tom

[mike cobine]

Re: Painting of a 1693-SWC

I was thinking about the epoxy primer issue last night. If the problem is moisture coming through the 'glass and lifting regular paint, then why would gelcoat be any different in protecting than epoxy primer?

I have one I'm getting ready to paint a fender and using two-part epoxy primer to be covered with lacquer.

[Joe R.]

Re: Painting of a 1693-SWC

Ray,

Rather than go into a thread that runs to the Gulf of Mexico, why don't you pick a painter that has done Corvettes before. Evaluate his work and select someone that KNOWS what they are doing. YOU will NEVER achieve the results of a good painter if this is your first try at painting a Corvette. YOU will NEVER be happy with the results yourself.

Do yourself a favor and seek a professionals help.

Maybe this is not the advise you seek but it has worked for thousands and it will work for you.

Regards,

JR

[Ray C.]

Re: Painting of a 1693-SWC

Thanks for your response, but part of the fun of restoring Corvette for me is to do as much of the work as possible. I just completed a 61 with Sateen Silver Metallic lacquer and it may not be 100-point paint job, but it sure is better then some that I have seen. I want to learn as much about the restoration process as possible even the paint. I also thought if I could get as many opinions as possible it would not only help me but other that log in on this thread. Your response is very important and I am sure it will help many Corvette owners with their decisions. I am interested on how others that have painted their Corvettes, professional or amateurs prepped their cars and what materials they used prior to lacquer.

Ray #36314

[Joe R.]

Re: Painting of a 1693-SWC

Ray,

Cudos to you for your effort!

Here goes how I have painted about 6 split windows and a load of other mid years.

Never have I used any type of gel-coat BUT have used a material that may have taken the place.

This is the OLD SCHOOL method and some new painters will faint but it has worked well thru the years.

After stripping the entire body I use Ditz 330 to clean the body of all residual oils etc.

The body is sprayed with Feather-Fill which is made by Evercoat. It is a polyster based material and is THICK and easy to build up. I usually use about two gallons of this material. I then let it cure 24 hours and cover it with a dark grey primer. I let this cure for 30 days.

It is important to use a polyster based material over polyster based resin fiberglass. It is especially important if you are using NEW fiberglass panels. DO NOT use the epoxy based materials on NEW fiberglass panels. I have learned the hard way that it DOES NOT work well.

Then after 30 days I use 180 wet paper and completely sand off the dark gray primer. This way you can see pinholes and imprefections easily and sand them away.

Again the surface is cleaned with Ditz 330 and a primer sealer is applied. Use whatever is recommended by the paint manufacturer you are using. All material should come from the same manufacturer. After a couple of days the surface is sanded wet with 400 paper.

Now you are ready for your top coat of color. I mix ALL my paint in gallon cans and have someone agitating them all the time, especially with metallics. If you paint metallics put a couple of marbles in the bottom of your can to keep them agitated.

After the top coat is applied you should apply a clear within 24 hours, IF you are going to use clear at all.

Yes, this is an old school method but I have several mid years that I painted over 20 years ago and they are showroom fresh. Of course they have never seen sunlight either and have been kept in a controlled environment.

Hope this helps and like I said before there are hundreds of ways to get the job done but this one has worked for me.

Regards,

JR

[Ray C.]

Re: Painting of a 1693-SWC

Thanks! JR

That is very close to the procedure that I used on the 61 and the marble trick for metallic paint is exactly the tricks of the trade that I am looking for.

Thank you very much for your response!

Ray

[Mike G.]

Re: Painting of a 1693-SWC

Ray: I'm with you -- Painting it yourself is very do-able with acrylic lacquer. For the first coat, I would second the recommendation to use a catalyzed polyester primer/filler. I use PolyPrime from PCL and it works well. Very similar to "SlickSand" or "Feather Fill". Reduce it about 10% with acetone and shoot through a 2.0 mm tip.

After curing for a day, you can block sand to your heart's content before proceeding to the lacquer primer ( I use PPG Kondar). And then more sanding.

For a sealer, I've used "highly reduced" DPLF epoxy primer with good results. The ratio is on the PPG product sheet.

One tip I learned along the way: use alternating colors for your undercoats. Makes it much easier to see where you've sprayed!

Mike