I recently had the Muncie in a 65 L78 cpe rebuilt. All the syncros were replaced along with a new second gear,reverse gear and imput shaft and of course the standard Muncie rebuild kit. The transmission is extremely tight and and takes a bit of manuvering to get it into first gear and sometimes reverse. The movement of the shifter between neutral and first gear is almost hard to discern, and the distance between first and second almost feels like a Hurst and not a stock Muncie. I was told that this will loosen up. Is this normal after a complete rebuild? It is the original shifter and linkage.
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Re: C2-rebuilt muncie
Rob-----
Part of the problem may be the incorrect installation of the shifter rods on the shifter levers. The shifter rods should be attached to the levers at the TOP holes and not the lower holes. The lower holes cause the linkage to be converted to the "short throw" configuration. Personally, I don't recommend this "short throw" configuration.
There's no other reason that I can think of for your shifter pattern to be changed after a rebuild. The shifting pattern, including the length of throw, gate width, etc. should not be affected by a rebuild. After a rebuild, with the installation of new parts, the transmission may shift a little bit harder for awhile, but that's all I would expect.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: C2-rebuilt muncie
Is this a short-throw / long-throw issue ? Did you install the trans and linkage, or did a shop do it ?Comment
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Re: C2-rebuilt muncie
I rebuilt my own mucie recently and was a bit nervous when I couldn't get it into first gear unless the car was moving. At stop lights I had to get the car rolling ever so slightly in 2nd, then pop into first, and go. It was pretty embarrasing.
Anyway, I wasn't about to pull the transmission again so I just drove the car. After about 100 miles I could get into 1st about 1/2 the time. After about 300, 3/4 of the time. And now 100%. The synchro has to break in as it is initially too tight on the 1st gear cone as the synchro won't rotate on the cone to mesh with the slider. Give it some time, it will loosen up. As it loosens up, you should get a more physical feedback when shifting from neutral into first. To speed up the break in process bring the car up to a normal speed in 2nd and try to downshift into 1st. This will cause the synchro to spin on the first gear cone as it brings the counteshaft up to speed. Do this over and over and you will feel the transmisson loosen up.
Reverse might be a problem as there is nothing to break in here. When I can't get into revers, I just throw it in neutral let out the clutch momentairly and try reverse again. It usually works.
Whatever you do, don't FORCE IT into first. Get the car rolling and it should pop right in. If you force it, you risk breaking all kinds of components.
BrianComment
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Re: C2-rebuilt muncie
Thanks Joe and Wayne for your comments. This is a reputable corvette only shop that has done several transmissions for me before. It is both a throw issue as well as a tight transition from neutral to first. I will check what holes the shift rods are in tomorrow. As far as the trans itself I will put some miles on it and see if it loosens up.Comment
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Re: C2-rebuilt muncie
Rob-----
There's no reason why a reputable Corvette shop shouldn't install the shifter rods in the "short throw" position. They may have forgotten in which position they were when they diassembled it and/or figured that "Corvette guys" would always want it in the "short throw" configuration. A lot of the time, they'd be right. Not in my case, but a lot of the time.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: C2-rebuilt muncie
Thanks Brian, I am going to see if it loosens up after some miles.Comment
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