Part Wash Solvent

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  • David Warshaw

    #1

    Part Wash Solvent

    I just bought a 30 gal part washer..time to fill it with something...what is the best solvent to use ? I am told white kerosene....
  • Mark L.
    Expired
    • January 1, 1996
    • 121

    #2
    Re: Part Wash Solvent

    I have used kerosene almost exclusively, it isn't a real harsh solvent however is much more flammable than some commercial products. After the kerosene wash I use a strong Simple Green solution, dry the parts in the furnace room and they are ready for paint or whatever. Do not use an incandecent lamp near your washer, fluorescents only!!

    Comment

    • Christopher R.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • April 1, 1975
      • 1593

      #3
      Re: Part Wash Solvent

      I need to rebuild a carburetor. I was thinking of soaking the old parts in either acetone, lacquer thinner, or mineral spirits. This is in order of harshness. I understand that acetone and lacquer thinner would attack non-metal pieces. But can anyone advise why I should not acetone or lacquer thinner on metal parts to be cleaned?

      Comment

      • Jim T.
        Expired
        • March 1, 1993
        • 5351

        #4
        Re: Part Wash Solvent

        I have use a large plastic bucket with a lid filled with about 4 gallons of mineral spirits for parts cleaning. For carburator cleaning I usually get to a safe place to use Gumont spray carb cleaner and assist the carb cleaner with a nylon brush.

        Comment

        • Mark L.
          Expired
          • January 1, 1996
          • 121

          #5
          Re: Part Wash Solvent

          It's a matter of economics for me. Kerosene is cheap, and not as harsh on my tender skin ;-)

          Comment

          • Joe L.
            Beyond Control Poster
            • February 1, 1988
            • 42936

            #6
            Re: Part Wash Solvent

            Chris----

            Acetone or lacquer thinner are perfectly safe for use on any metal parts and will not harm the part regardless of contact time. Both are extremely flammable, though, so extreme care must be exercised.

            For carburetor parts, and even many other parts, I've found that immersion-type carburetor cleaners do the best job. However, these cleaners are a carbolic-acid based concoction that are extremely toxic, pungent, and difficult to dispose of when they've reached their cleaning limit. But they're VERY effective. They have to be; otherwise, nobody would put up with their lesser "attributes".

            When using them, do so in a well-ventilated area. Place the parts in the can/bucket and let them remain for 24 hours, or so, and close the container in the interim. ALWAYS wear rubber gloves when exposing yourself to the cleaner or parts which have been immersed in it. If you don't, not only is it a health risk, but you'll be smelling the carbolic acid for days no matter how well you wash your hands. Berryman and Mechanix Brand are two who market this material. A large 5 gallon pail of it is required if you wish to immerse entire carburetor bodies. This size sells for about $65.

            DO NOT IMPROPERLY DISPOSE OF IT WHEN ITS CLEANING POWERS HAVE BEEN EXHAUSTED.
            In Appreciation of John Hinckley

            Comment

            • Gene M.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • April 1, 1985
              • 4232

              #7
              Re: Part Wash Solvent

              Dave, All the cleaning solvents suggested work fine. I like paint thinner (very cheap) for metal parts followed by a disk brake spray final rinse down.

              Comment

              • Bill Braun

                #8
                Re: Part Wash Solvent

                Acetone, despite its flammability, is excellent for metal parts as it evaporates completely and quickly. All the more reason, of course, to use it only in a well-ventilated environment. Thick rubber gloves are necessary, as it penetrates surgical gloves, and therefore can damage rubber gasket material as well. If I haven't forgotten all my toxicology, it ain't the best for your liver or kidneys, either! Bill Braun 33186

                Comment

                • John H.
                  Beyond Control Poster
                  • December 1, 1997
                  • 16513

                  #9
                  Re: Part Wash Solvent - Most Are Unsafe

                  Almost all the common solvents we use in small quantities to clean stuff are toxic, environmentally unfriendly, and EXTREMELY flammable, requiring care, thought, and effective ventilation of the work area to avoid having a street full of big red trucks when something goes wrong. Most local codes these days specifically prohibit using these chemicals in your home garage due to their toxicity, potential for ground water pollution, and fire hazard. We are nearing move-in day for our new home, which includes the huge custom-designed heated dream garage I've wanted all my life, and I am arranging with my local "SafetyKleen" distributor for a small parts washer, plus their monthly service visit, where they collect the used solvent and replenish it with new solvent. Their solvent is very effective, is not toxic nor flammable, and is the ONLY parts cleaning solvent permitted by code in any commercial or residential buildings in our area. SafetyKleen has distributors/service reps all over the country - drain & replenish service runs about $25-$50 per visit depending on the size of your washer (naturally, they will also sell you one of theirs if you don't have one of your own).

                  The point made in a previous post about using fluorescent work lights is a good one - a fellow Ferrari Club member lost not only his 1967 275GTB/4, but most of his house as well about 15 years ago when a conventional incandescent drop light fell from his hood onto the engine and broke while he had his fuel system open - car caught fire, extinguisher was in the basement, and by the time he got back into the garage, it was out of control and he wound up losing the car, the garage, and the house. I haven't had an incandescent bulb in my garage since (pilot lights can do the same thing with flammable solvents).

                  John

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