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I just got my 66 coupe back from a total restoration job that lasted over 1 year and 8 months, the radiator and front cooling system was removed during the restoration. After driving around for a while following picking it up from the body shop it started to run hot and water temp hit max and a funny whistleing noise started coming from the holley area. I replaced the gasket under the holley thinking it had cracked and the vacuum leak was coming from there...upon start up (after it cooled down)the noise went away so I took her out for another drive and didn't get 2 miles away and the temp went back to 250+ and then the noise started again? It does sound like a vacuum leak (high pitch whistle). I took it home and topped off the expansion tank with coolant...is this the only way to fill the radiator? since they had it removed from the car I assumed perhaps they didn't add enough coolant and this was the source of the rapid heating of the fluid.
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Re: 1966 over heating a high pitch whistle
Are you sure the noise you describe isn't steam escaping from the cooling system? -
Re: 1966 over heating a high pitch whistle
I looked for any signs of excaping vapor but did not see any evidence of it, I will revisit it today as well as changing the thermostat to see if that helps the overheating problem. I changed the gasket under the holley but not the one under the adapter that sits on top of the intake manifold.Comment
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Re: 1966 over heating a high pitch whistle
Mayby you know from the shop what kind of coolant they put in it. I would be more protective of my system and drain the system from the radiator and remove the drain plugs from the sides of the block to get all the coolant out, these drain plugs will release about a quart of coolant each side. Use the recommended amount of anti-freeze first and them top off with distilled water. Refilling a drained system air pockets can occur, some drill a small hole in the thermostat to help bleed air from the system during refill. Newer cars have bleed valves to open and close. Thermostats do fail, I had one fail driving down the interstate once and the engine got hot quick on that hot August day. A new Zerex anti-freeze is recommended by previous posts on this board.Comment
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Re: 1966 over heating a high pitch whistle
Understood....... I did use Zerex to cap off the expansion tank but, I am new to this on this car. When refilling from scratch do you begin by adding the antifreeze to the expansion tank?Comment
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Re: 1966 over heating a high pitch whistle
That is the way I do it on my 68 and 96 with the tank and top off with water and start it up and let it start circulating and add more distilled water. Then drive it and check it. If you are going to drain it and change the thermostat you could partially fill it after removing the thermostat before installing the new one.Comment
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Re: 1966 over heating a high pitch whistle
remove the thermostat housing and the thermostat from the intake manifold,with this off and the engine not running slowly fill the expansion tank with a mixture of anti freeze and water till you see that the thermostat cavity in the intake manifold is full.this will push all the air out of the block. install the thermostat and top hose,start the engine,keep it at a fast idle and as the level goes down in the expansion tank continue to add coolent till the expansion tank is 1/2 full.Comment
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Re: 1966 over heating IM A LITTLE TEA POT
Get water in it. I agree with Clem except that initially I think I would use clear water until I made sure things were working correctly, then refill with antifreeze. The other thing that concerns me in this conversation is that there is no gasket directly under the Holley and there is no adapter, just a metal shim and gasket.Comment
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Re: 1966 over heating a high pitch whistle
You may have 2 problems...
1. Overheating which has been discussed here
2. Vacuum leak.
Does the whistle stop as soon as the engine is shut down? If so you may have a leak between the intake and the heads. To check this start engine. get it to whistle and then place a wet rag or possibly a little water along the manifold to see if you can alter the whistle.Comment
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Re: 1966 over heating a high pitch whistle
Gary,
If the high pitch whistle noise in the carb area is there at idle, but goes away with increasing the throttle, it's probably warpage in the carb. I had the same problem with the holley on a '66, only when it was hot. Replacing the main carb gaskets fixed it, but only temporarily.Comment
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Re: 1966 over heating a high pitch whistle
It starts as the engine starts to get hot and increases in loudness the longer it runs, my autobody shop that did my restoration hooked up my heater hoses wrong and I believe this lead to this problem. They had the expansion tank hose running to the intake manifold and the other running to the water pump?? Go figure well as least switching them back the right way made the overheating problem go away. I'm just wondering if it led to a more serious problem but I didn't drive it too far a couple of miles but enough for it to get very hot.Comment
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Re: 1966 over heating a high pitch whistle
noise stops as soon as stop the engine and sometimes when you put it into gear and the idle dropsComment
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Re: 1966 over heating a high pitch whistle
The whistle is a possible vacuum leak. If it were a whistle due to the overheating it would continue after the engine was shutdown.
You also may have the whistle being generated by the position of the throttle plates in the carb at a particular RPM. Try moving the accelerator ever so slightly and see if the whistle quits or simply adjust the idle somewhat......Comment
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Hooking up the radiator hoses backwards
won't make your engine run hot. Not getting all the air out of the cooling system when you hook the hoses backwards will. It won't cause your engine to whistle, either.Comment
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Ammend previous message title from
radiator hoses to heater hoses.Comment
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