Correct factory finishes - 1970

[Jon Fairbairn]

My name is Jon Fairbairn and I am an eighteen year old student from Southwesten Ontario, Canada. Currently, my dad and I are restoring a 1970 454 Corvette roadster in poly bronze. This car is loaded with options, (in fact the only option I beleive it doesn't have are anti-theft alarm and telescopic steering.) This restoration has been an ongoing project of over three years. We are trying to restore it as faithfully to NCRS specs as we can. I have a few questions regarding the correct factory finishes of my car. They are as follows:

1. Can I use a modern urethane base/clear paint system? When properly
wetsanded and buffed, the appearance is very close to a good lacquer, but
the paint is far more durable.

2. Does anyone have the correct formula for #993 Corvette Bronze?

3. Were the wheel wells blacked out before the body was painted or vice versa?

4. My car, a 1970 454 four speed convertible with A/C, has a fiberglass bracket
or channel bonded to the upper inner right front wheel well. It covers the
upper bolt for the rad cradle assembly, so someone has cut a crude hole in
it to provide access to that bolt. If I repair the hole, how do you access
this bolt?

Regards,
Jon

[Jack H.]

Re: Correct factory finishes - 1970

1. The purpose of restoring a car is to put it back to its factory original configuration. For paint, this was lacquer without clear coat. Can you paint the car with non-lacquer paint and clear coat it? Certainly!

But, if you want to have the car judged, then expect substantial deductions (ennumerated in the NCRS Judging Reference Manual) for this intentional deviation from factory original....

2. Visit www.autocolorlibrary.com and you'll find detail regarding what PPG paints were used on what vehicles in a given year along with corresponding detail regarding various interior components. The site will tell you Corvette Bronze = Dietzen 2264.

3. Black out was done after the car was painted.

4. A/C equipped cars had a fiberglass 'sleeve' bonded to the RH inner fender to protect the A/C hoses running to the condensor. There was no provision in the sleeve for access to radiator core support bolts....

[Jim T.]

Re: Correct factory finishes - 1970

Jon if you repair the crude hole you will not need to access the bolt unless you are going to remove the radiator support. Some owners unbolt the support to move it forward in removing the radiator. This is not necessary. I have a original owner 70 and it has the fiberglass cover intact, the way it left the factory. I have removed my radiator a few times but I do not remove the hood and I do not move the radiator support. I unbolt the upper control arm and move it back some into the wheel well and this permits the removal of the fan shroud and the radiator lifts out easily when the shroud is out.