C1 Wheel Bearing Advice

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  • Mike B.
    Expired
    • November 1, 2004
    • 389

    #1

    C1 Wheel Bearing Advice

    I recall reading about switching out the old style ball wheel bearings with modern tapered roller bearings and would like to hear the opinions of members on the subject. It seems that the tapered style have a lot more forgiveness and will keep the wheels in better track as the ball type are very particular with a narrow torque setting. Although relatively new, they always feel either too tight or too lose. My car is a driver with radial tires mounted so I am mostly concerned about good responsiveness and road control.

    Furthermore, if the consensus is to switch them out, can someone recommend the year, make and model of car(s) that can be used to cross reference the bearings and seals?

    Thanks,
    Mike
  • Mike B.
    Expired
    • November 1, 2004
    • 389

    #2
    Re: C1 Wheel Bearing Advice

    I forgot to mention that it is a 1961 model year.

    Comment

    • Mike B.
      Expired
      • November 1, 2004
      • 389

      #3
      Re: C1 Wheel Bearing Advice

      Based on a tip I found the info in the archives. The details were provided by Roy Bratz, January 10, 2003.

      Comment

      • Ed Jennings

        #4
        Re: C1 Wheel Bearing Advice

        I put tapered bearings on a 62 that didn't have any wheel bearing issues with the ball bearings. Truthfully, I could not tell that the tapered bearings made any difference. They are a bit less fussy about adjustment.

        Comment

        • Mike E.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • March 1, 1975
          • 5068

          #5
          Re: C1 Wheel Bearing Advice

          After 60-70,000 miles on 62's over the last 30 years, including racing the Gulf Oil racer at Laguna Seca, etc., all on ball bearings, (this includes daily driving a 62 fuelie) I see absolutely no reason to depart from ball bearings. I do, however, have a friend who is always looking to spend more money on his car--these are perfect for him. Can sense/feel no difference between the two.

          Comment

          • Michael H.
            Expired
            • January 29, 2008
            • 7477

            #6
            Re: C1 Wheel Bearing Advice

            I agree with Mike. Also, there's actually more movement, or end play, in a tapered roller style bearing. The older ball bearing is designed to be adjusted to zero clearance/end play while the tapered roller design requires a setting of .001 to .006, so if your looking for dead on zero, the old ball bearing is what you want. The main reason the style was changed was durability but that doesn't mean the ball bearing unit will fail early, given the somewhat limited amount of driving we do with these cars.

            I don't know if the companies that sell the roller brng conversions mention the difference in end play adjustment but if they don't, they should. A roller brng will not survive long if set at zero.

            Michael

            Comment

            • Dave Suesz

              #7
              I'd be a waste of money for me...

              My A arm pins are still tight but my kingpins are pretty loose. I blame 120,000 miles, and the fact that most of them were using rock-hard replacement shocks. I thought buckboard-stiff suspension was normal for these, because I grew up in this car. The minute I found out that when you push down on the fender the car is supposed to move, I bought new Delco gas shocks. Incredible difference in ride.

              Comment

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