C 3 Carpet Question

[Kurt B.]

Gentlemen,
I expect to shortly begin installation of all new carpeting in my 68 coupe. I purchased my carpet years ago and it came with no directions. My question is as follows: Can any of you who have done this task in the past tell me the correct sequence for the various pieces that need to be installed? Also, what adhesive is best to use for this project? Lastly, any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I have never done anything relating to carpeting before.
Thank you in advance for your much needed input,
Kurt # 26406

[Joe C.]

Re: C 3 Carpet Question

Kurt:

First, I would suggest a good heat barrier as an underlayment, such as those aluminized barriers that are sold. I understand that the early sharks can get very, very hot thru the floorboards! Next, a heat gun should help mold the carpeting around any sharp bends. I have never found it necessary to use one, but judicious use can only help. Finally, use 3M Spray Carpet Adhesive. You will need at least 2 cans.......get 3 for good measure.

Joe

[Kurt B.]

Re: C 3 Carpet Question

Joe,
Thanks for the response. Question regarding the heat barrier underlayment: doesn't adding that alter the fit of the carpet to the contours of the floor and will it allow the carpet to "move" and wrinkle? I believe my carpet has the original jute type backing glued to it. Are you suggesting heat barrier in addition to the jute or in lieu therof?
Thanks again,
Kurt

[John Chesher]

Re: C 3 Carpet Question

If you intend it to be judged, you might want to check the judging guide for your year. Not sure one the early C3s, but the original carpet in my 81 is NOT glued down anywhere.

[Kurt B.]

C 3 Carpet Question

John,
I just checked my Judging Manual and it makes no mention of glue vs. no glue but my manual is a few years old and perhaps the newer version addresses this subject. Does anyone have the latest 68 Judging Manual and does it discuss the glue question. Thanks
Kurt

[Tom S.]

Re: C 3 Carpet Question

Kurt
You can cut and fit the heat barrier before installing the carpet.It is only about 3/16 in. thick and does not interfere with then carpet fit at all.I got mine from a local upholstery, shop and bought it by the yard. It was very reasonable and easy to work with. What a difference inside the car both with the heat and road noise.Also install the underbody insulation as well if you don't already have it, what a difference the two make, I live in S. Florida and the car can now be driven in the summer time,where before it was almost impossible to stand the heat.As far as the glue I used the 3-m brand. The best way to get the carpet to fit is to put it out in the sun,for several day's if you have to, it will help get some of the wrinkles out, and yes you will also need a heat gun or your wife's hair dryer on high will work. It is still a tough job, but well worth it when you are done.Good luck. Tom Stanton #41491

[Patrick H.]

Re: C 3 Carpet Question

I don't know if I'd worry about that issue, except when discussing the large "flap" that goes on the bulkhead behind the seats. Then again, I KNOW my 72 has that flap glued in place.

Originally, you carpet had an underlayment beneath it which is not copied by any carpet reproducers. The carpet was actually glued to a somewhat firm rubber backing, and then below that was jute. These were "glued" together, or more likely heat formed together, as an assembly.
Below the carpet/backing/jute, many cars (but not all, from what I gather) had a thick insulator, almost like 1/4 inch or so tar paper. It is formed and even perforated to properly fit the footwell of the car.

When I install carpet, I actually have original underlayment and carpeting from cars that I use to "copy" and fit my carpet. The jute glued to the back of ACC carpet I've used (and it's been a few years) is very similar to the correct shape. The "tar paper like" insulator can be installed if you wish, as certain repro houses do make it, or you can use the 1/4-3/8" thick "ceramic" insulator stuff sold by some others. If you use the foil-backed jute, then you'll likely be too thick if your new carpet also has jute installed. You have the option of either tearing off the jute from the new carpet and gluing the carpet right to the foil backed jute, or forgetting the whole foil-backed jute altogether.

Some have used the foil/bubble wrap combo stuff available at Lowes, etc as their heat insulator instead of the ceramic stuff or foil.

I always use both 3M general purpose spray adhesive AND the super duty stuff. The superstuff works great for vertical sufaces, the general for horizontal ones.

It often helps to start in the back. Install the carpet on the two wheelwells, then install the piece that goes on the rear floor and goes up the rear bulkhead. Then do the two front pieces (footwells). Last do the piece that goes on the bulkhead behind the seats, as it hs to flap over the footwell carpet.

I've heard of guys recarpeting their car in under 3 hours. I'm a perfectionist, so it takes me a whole Satruday. AND, before you start, be sure you have the correct passenger's side carpet for your car. They are formed differently in the footwell. If you are not sure what I mean by this, then ask and/or first test-fit your passenger footwell carpet. Pay close attention to the trans tunnel side where it meets the floorboard and footboard.

Good luck!

Patrick

[Jim T.]

Re: C 3 Carpet Question

Hey Kurt, with all this work you are accomplishing, you may just get to do some driving before the snow comes in your part of the country. Your 68 should of came with jute attached to black rubber type of underlayment with the carpet on top of this. It has been years since I replaced my 68's original carpeting, but I left the jute attached to the rubber underlayment and put the new carpeting over it. I did not use any adhesvive. I don't remember where I got my carpeting, I changed to the 70+ cut pile becasue I liked it better and it came with a thin layer of foam attached to the carpet. The carpet has stayed in place and doesn't bunch up or move. One day, I will remove it and install the heat barrier/sound insulation superior product that is available now just to keep the heat out. I am a lot farther south than you and the heat coming in on a hot, hot day sure warms up the floor area. Our 68's came with additonal heat insulation on the underside, should reinstall that stuff to buffer the heat as well. Let us know what you do.

[Reba Whittington]

Re: C 3 Carpet Question

Kurt, unless 3-M has changed the formula, be sure you are in a ventilated area and come out for air now and again. I remember helping do the back carpet in a coupe, and both Dick and I came out reeling from the glue fumes.

[Kurt B.]

Thank you, all *NM*