I purchased an eight inch finned balancer for my 340 horse 62 to replace a non finned eight inch balancer that was on the engine. I am concerned that the fit of the new balancer is too loose. It feels like I can push the new balancer on until it bottoms on the crank shoulder. When pushed on until it bottoms there is still some wobble or side to side play when rocking the balancer.
I took some measurements of the old and new balancer front and back diameters as well as the crankshaft snout at the front of the timing cover. They are: Crankshaft OD 1.247", Old Balancer Rear 1.2475, Front 1.2145; New Balancer Rear 1.261, Front 1.219.
Questions I have are: Is the crankshaft snout tapered from back to front and how much? Even though the new balancer is noticeably loose will the front bolt hold it on the shaft? If not can I have this balancer machined and sleeved to the proper clearances? What are my options? I do not want this balancer to come off at 6000 RPM!
By the way an old thread mentioned the possibility of the timing mark slipping as the rubber connection gets weaker. I noticed that the timing mark on the old balancer is about a half inch behind the key way in the hub. Shouldn't they line up?
I took some measurements of the old and new balancer front and back diameters as well as the crankshaft snout at the front of the timing cover. They are: Crankshaft OD 1.247", Old Balancer Rear 1.2475, Front 1.2145; New Balancer Rear 1.261, Front 1.219.
Questions I have are: Is the crankshaft snout tapered from back to front and how much? Even though the new balancer is noticeably loose will the front bolt hold it on the shaft? If not can I have this balancer machined and sleeved to the proper clearances? What are my options? I do not want this balancer to come off at 6000 RPM!
By the way an old thread mentioned the possibility of the timing mark slipping as the rubber connection gets weaker. I noticed that the timing mark on the old balancer is about a half inch behind the key way in the hub. Shouldn't they line up?
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