Diff. between Lacquer and Acrylic Lacquer?

[Patricia Brown]

What is the difference between lacquer thinner and acrylic lacquer thinner? Which do I use to help neutralize after paint stripping? I once heard using lacquer thinner on fiberglass could hurt the fiberglass: this must not be true, as I see many people are using it for neutralizing...? I've also seen some people use acetone for neutralizing: which is better, lacquer thinner or acetone? (I plan to use Captain Lees or Kleene Strip).

Thank you! Patricia

[Steven S.]

Re: Diff. between Lacquer and Acrylic Lacquer?

Acrylic solvent is a different solvent blend due to different solvents being needed to cut the acrylic resin in acrylic lacquers. Either will work to wipe down fiberglass. Acetone is used by all fiberglass manufacturers as a clean up solvent due to it's evaporation rate being much faster than any other solvent. It is also very flamable and will spontaniously start on fire if rags soaked in it are stacked up. Flash point is zero degrees F. Any solvent can be a problem if the fiberglassfibers are exposed. They will act as straws and wick the solvent in. Later with heat (like from an engine or the sun) it will try and come out again. This can dreate bubbles, solvent popes or even push paint off the fiberglass.

Steve

[Barry K.]

Re: Diff. between Lacquer and Acrylic Lacquer?

if it helps at all, last fall when my car was in the paint shop getting stripped down, after each section was stripped the painter went over it thoroughly with lacquer thinner, than soapy water, than lacquer thinner again to make sure all of the stripper was off the fiberglass. This was done as soon as each section was finished.
after the entire car was finished being stripped he went over it again with the lacquer thinner than soapy water, than lacquer thinner again.
After the entire car was "washed" of the solvents that way it sat for a few weeks with nothing being done to it to let any possible remaining solvent vent out of the fiberglass. My painter specializes in older vettes only and has been doing it this way for 30 years and says with this method he has never had a problem afterwards with solvent popping. It may be a bit of an overkill but better safe than sorry and taking your time and doing this part of the job correctly will save you from major headaches later on.
I think letting the car sit and "vent" is just as important as the thorough washing off of the solvent. If you can let the car sit outside in the warm sunlight during the day during the "venting" period it would probably be even better. I would suggest two weeks for venting - more if you have the time. Mine sat almost a month before he started any of the fiberglass repair work.

[Patricia Brown]

Re: Diff. between Lacquer and Acrylic Lacquer?

Thank you Steve and Barry for your help! I'm glad to know either type of lacquer thinner will work; I just grabbed the "acrylic" lacquer thinner at the auto body store, but I noticed the hardware store only carried non-acrylic lacquer thinner. I appreciate the specifics on when to use lacquer thinner and when to use soapy water. Letting the car sit and vent will be no problem at all; it'll be several months, at least, before it's ready for paint.

Thanks, Patricia

[Craig S.]

Re: Diff. between Lacquer and Acrylic Lacquer?

Patricia - I think the naming difference is semantics anyway....acrylic lacquer is really the only typical lacquer used for years.....prior to that there was nitrocellulose......but I don't think it has been available for years. Generally, I use the body shop name brands for thinning (such as lucite for Dupont). They come in different formulations for speed that control flow out based on temp. For gun cleaning, and for fiberglass wipedown etc, I go to home depot and get Klean-Strip brand lacquer thinner in the blue and orange can for about $7.50. The good stuff for painting will run about three times the price or so these days.....Craig