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I have a 70 coupe without power breaks and its hard to stop( Not like my 1989 conv.)One of the calibers in front is leaking also ..I am sure that not helping either.. Can anyone recommend a breaking system that would be better than what I have but still be stock.. Will stainless lines and new calibers and rotors help... I saw a rotor with groves cut into them are they any better.. Thanks in advance guys..
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Re: C-3 breaks
First off, non power brakes are going to be harder to stop than power, but they should still work quite well. You are right that the leaking caliper is not helping, although it should probably make it pull in the opposite direction of the leaking caliper. Get new (or have your's done) stainless steel sleeved calipers. Second, the remaining problem is probably your brake pads, and since your one wheel is more than likely soaked with brake fluid anyway, replace them all. Without getting real technical, just go to Kragen or Napa and get a set of stock Raybestos pads. They should work very well. I autocrossed my 69, for many years with these pads and manual brakes with no problem. I am now using a stock pad on the outside and a semi-metalic on the inside of my 72 autocross car with manual brakes. They work very well. If I am not careful, I can easily lock up the 11" wide racing tires.
Ken -
Re: C-3 breaks
The brake system you have doesn't need any "upgrades" - it's an outstanding design; just keep it up to snuff and use stock organic pads. Do NOT replace the rotors unless they're damaged, scored, or below minimum thickness - that will just open up another can of worms relative to lateral runout-related issues. Stainless lines will do absolutely nothing at all for you.Comment
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don't use semi metallic pads
If you swap in semi-metallic pads, it will require increased pedal effort to stop. For manual brakes, stick with the organic pads. If you elect to add power brakes (as I did on my wife's car) you will need the booster, the power master cylinder, the brake lines from the cylinder to the distribution block on the frame, and the correct mounting bracket that holds the pedals for a power brake car (the automatic trans bracket is identical to the 4 speed, only the pedals are different). Total cost about $300 and now it stops great despite the weight of the 454.
Good luck,
MarkComment
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Re: don't use semi metallic pads
Jack
If you get your brakes in proper working order you will not need power brakes. I have a 69 with standard brakes and they work just fine. I have Bendix organic pad's on mine.This is one reason I bought my car,standard brakes and standard steering equals no LEAKS and less problems. Tom #41491Comment
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Ken, curious as to why the two different pads ? *NM*
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Re: Ken, curious as to why the two different pads
In autocross, brakes are very important and they get used a lot, but unlike road racing with lots of laps, autocross is short 50 second runs. Therefore we need brakes right from the get go, but also when they get hot. The semi-metalics work better when they are hot, but the stock pads are good cold. So, by having both types, we have good brakes under all circumstances. (hopefully!)
KenComment
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Re: don't use semi metallic pads
I agree with Tom, and as I said, I've been using stock pads for years and have been very happy with them. I only mentioned the semi-metalics in case you are doing a lot of hard driving and need some real stopping power. Like Tom's car, my 69 came with manual brakes and steering, but I added power steering and a smaller diameter, but fatter steering wheel to it several years ago and that was the best move I ever made. I really enjoy driving it, and it is just as much fun on the road as my wife's 04 Z06. (Or maybe it's the other way around!)Comment
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