I was hoping someone here may have some insight to several questions about my 1965 L79 4-spd and a speedometer/odo issue that no one has been able to fully answer from other forums or at local Corvette repair shops.
I apologize in advance for the length of this posting. I'm the original owner of a 1965 2-top Nassau Blue & black L79 350HP 4-Spd w/PS which has remained mostly original and is driven daily. Its build date was April 1965.
My questions are:
1. Were all 4-spd 1965 L79's supplied with the close ratio 4-spd or were the wide ratio units also available as an option?
2. Was the 1965 L79 close ratio 4-spd option referred to as an M-20 or an M-21?
3. Is the 1.77" OD blue internal drive gear GM # 6261795 unique to the close ratio transmissons and the 1.85" OD green internal drive gear GM # 6261794 unique to the wide ratio units?
4. Are the number of teeth on these two different drive gears the same?
5. What would happen if one of the incompatible driven gears are installed?
6. Were all posi axle ratios available for the 1965 close ratio L79 4-spds, or were only the 3.70 to 4:56 ratios offered?
My current tires provide 757.5 revolutions per mile which is close to the original 760 design basis. I recently had the cluster pulled at a corvette shop to get the odometer working again and a replacement full housing speedometer head and odometer driven gear were installed. The driven gear at the transmission was not altered.
Now that the odo wheels are turning, I used a portable GPS unit to check accuracy and surprisingly found that the odo is reading 20% high (1.2 miles recorded for every true mile traveled) while the replacement speedo head that the shop installed reads 20% slow (just the opposite of what one would expect).
Does this sound like I'm suffering from both a miscalibrated speedo head (reading slow) and mismatched transmission nylon gearing (cable spinning too fast)?
I had the transmission completely rebuilt 10 years ago and believe I was told it had a 2:20 ratio first gear, but I have not truly verified that statement. My ring and pinion gears at the rear axle were also replaced at that time with 3:36 gearing which made the speedometer read 10% slow. The original gearing was either 3:55 or 3:70 (do not exactly recall). I replaced the original nylon speedometer gear at the transmission with what I believe to have been a 20 tooth blue gear and for the last ten years the speedometer has been dead accurate. I unfortunately do not recall the color or tooth count of the original driven gear and did not look for the color of the internal drive gear. Incidently, the odometer wheels stopped working about 20 years ago before the rear axle ratio was changed.
The only thing I can think of is that my old speedometer head must have been miscalibrated to 1200 RPM at 60 MPH rather than 1000 RPM and so it was reading accurate in spite of an over-speeding cable (assuming that is what's causing the working odometer wheels to sprint faster). Or maybe I'm missing something else here.
Never-the-less, the shop now propsoes to charge me additional funds to hang some kind of an adjustable contraption off the side of the transmission to supposedly fix the speedometer and odometer errors (which again, are errors in opposed directions to each other).
Now, I almost wish I had left the odo wheels frozen.
Again, I apologize for this long-winded posting but anyone's expert thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks .... GR
I apologize in advance for the length of this posting. I'm the original owner of a 1965 2-top Nassau Blue & black L79 350HP 4-Spd w/PS which has remained mostly original and is driven daily. Its build date was April 1965.
My questions are:
1. Were all 4-spd 1965 L79's supplied with the close ratio 4-spd or were the wide ratio units also available as an option?
2. Was the 1965 L79 close ratio 4-spd option referred to as an M-20 or an M-21?
3. Is the 1.77" OD blue internal drive gear GM # 6261795 unique to the close ratio transmissons and the 1.85" OD green internal drive gear GM # 6261794 unique to the wide ratio units?
4. Are the number of teeth on these two different drive gears the same?
5. What would happen if one of the incompatible driven gears are installed?
6. Were all posi axle ratios available for the 1965 close ratio L79 4-spds, or were only the 3.70 to 4:56 ratios offered?
My current tires provide 757.5 revolutions per mile which is close to the original 760 design basis. I recently had the cluster pulled at a corvette shop to get the odometer working again and a replacement full housing speedometer head and odometer driven gear were installed. The driven gear at the transmission was not altered.
Now that the odo wheels are turning, I used a portable GPS unit to check accuracy and surprisingly found that the odo is reading 20% high (1.2 miles recorded for every true mile traveled) while the replacement speedo head that the shop installed reads 20% slow (just the opposite of what one would expect).
Does this sound like I'm suffering from both a miscalibrated speedo head (reading slow) and mismatched transmission nylon gearing (cable spinning too fast)?
I had the transmission completely rebuilt 10 years ago and believe I was told it had a 2:20 ratio first gear, but I have not truly verified that statement. My ring and pinion gears at the rear axle were also replaced at that time with 3:36 gearing which made the speedometer read 10% slow. The original gearing was either 3:55 or 3:70 (do not exactly recall). I replaced the original nylon speedometer gear at the transmission with what I believe to have been a 20 tooth blue gear and for the last ten years the speedometer has been dead accurate. I unfortunately do not recall the color or tooth count of the original driven gear and did not look for the color of the internal drive gear. Incidently, the odometer wheels stopped working about 20 years ago before the rear axle ratio was changed.
The only thing I can think of is that my old speedometer head must have been miscalibrated to 1200 RPM at 60 MPH rather than 1000 RPM and so it was reading accurate in spite of an over-speeding cable (assuming that is what's causing the working odometer wheels to sprint faster). Or maybe I'm missing something else here.
Never-the-less, the shop now propsoes to charge me additional funds to hang some kind of an adjustable contraption off the side of the transmission to supposedly fix the speedometer and odometer errors (which again, are errors in opposed directions to each other).
Now, I almost wish I had left the odo wheels frozen.
Again, I apologize for this long-winded posting but anyone's expert thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks .... GR
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