Engine compartment work while engine is out - NCRS Discussion Boards

Engine compartment work while engine is out

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  • Ron AKA 71LS5

    Engine compartment work while engine is out

    Hi all,

    I am going to be pulling my engine in the very near future for a re-build. I have a 71 LS5 with AC as the name implies and would like to know what recomendations anyone has regarding what and how I should do to take advantage of the engine not being in there. Detailing, cleaning, replacing known parts that are questionable after 100,000 miles and 30 years that are difficult to do when the engine is in.

    Thanks for the help,

    Ron AKA 71LS5 Grayslake IL
  • Jerry Clark

    #2
    Re: Engine compartment work while engine is out

    Hi Ron:

    As a former Antioch resident and a big block owner I have said more than once, "I wish I had done that while I had my engine out". More often than not I am referring to things like restoring my vacuum tank and the inner fender area surrounding it, all but inaccessible while the engine is in place. A thorough firewall clean up and routing / looming of all hoses and vacuum lines. as well as their replacement. Much attention to detail of areas like the expansion tank area, behind and beneath. Those are the three areas I wish I had spent more time detailing because this is your best opportunity to perform an acceptable restoration, unless you are planning a further frame off. Is Stardust Customs still in Round Lake Beach or did Red finally give up the ghost ?

    jerry

    Comment

    • Ron AKA 71LS5

      #3
      Re: Engine compartment work while engine is out

      Hum I bet my vacuum hoses should be replaced, who should I get them from? Is there a prefered method of looming the lines (ie tywraps?). Should I clean and paint the engine compartment? If so what color should I paint it? Jerry I think the place you are refering to is gone as I tried to get a phone number and they are not in the system....

      Any more inputs would be appreciated... Thanks

      Ron

      Comment

      • Jerry Clark

        #4
        Re: Engine compartment work while engine is out

        Hi Ron:

        Hum I bet my vacuum hoses should be replaced, who should I get them from?

        While suffering from a personality disorder of some sort Dr. Rebuild is competitively priced and his kit comes with the specific instructions, color coded no less.

        Is there a preferred method of looming the lines (ie tywraps?).

        The lines should fit within the attached metal hanger clips attached to your firewall and inner fenders, I have hidden small black plastic wire ties where possible to better secure things that weren't at the factory

        Should I clean and paint the engine compartment?

        I certainly would.

        If so what color should I paint it?

        It depends on your intentions, if you want NCRS then you should consider purchasing the judging guide as it will tell you in detail and why not do it correctly the first time.

        Thanks for checking the Stardust number, just curious.

        jerry

        Comment

        • Ron AKA 71LS5

          #5
          Re: Engine compartment work while engine is out

          Thanks Jerry.....

          Comment

          • Jack H.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • April 1, 1990
            • 9906

            #6
            Re: Engine compartment work while engine is out

            Consider NOT shotgunning the vaccum lines! What you'll get to replace will most likely be Dr. Rebuild based. These are very good lines, BUT there are subtle differences in material and striping compared to factory original hoses.

            Rubber is pretty darn durable. Tends to fatigue at cut end junctions and you can pull, inspect, and trim to fresh rubber as a fix and preserve the factory original lines. Also, taking a 6-pack/pizza and settling down inside the open engine compartment, you'll find it's REAL easy to spritz WD-40 onto the original rubber and clean it by hand to look fresh/new. I say WD-40 because it's a silcon based lubricant and that will 'fill' the rubber surface that's outgassed and lost its platicizers as WELL as clean surface dirt/grease. Just spray, wipe gently, change shop towels as you go, and you'll be shocked at how easy it was to preserve your factory original hoses.

            On wiring, wraps, and stays, use your Assembly Instruction Manual to see what went where. Odds are good there's a sample here/there of the real McCoy original item. Use this a 'template' for locating missing pieces. You'll find these items were shared by Chevy passenger cars of the era, a stroll through your local scrap yard will produce more real McCoy original parts than you can shake a stick at for CHEAP and you'll duck the reproduction parts sticker shock on many small items that all add up and have subtle differences from original pieces.

            With the engine out, this is a great time to document. Look up and into the side area at the fiberglass (between wheels and firewall). Odds are REAL GOOD you'll discover orginal Rockwell mfgr ID tags molded into the glass that contain week/Julian date codes (14 71 = 14th week of 71). A great time to shoot photos of same!

            To get engine out with A/C car, the A/C lines have to come off. Be careful! Original A/C compressor manifold had unique aluminum 'block' shape -- much different from later service spare unit with its 'binocular' shape. If you break the original, you'll be in a world of hurt trying to find a replacement....

            Once A/C components are carefully removed, this would be a great time to remove the hood and work in the nose area. How about cleaning the wiring/vacuum lines all the way around the nose! How about inspecting the radiator core support? They were notorious for water welling at the front/bottom and rust setting in -- a great time to pull the A/C condensor and radiator to fill and repaint the core support.

            Last, the nose has a reinforcement bar that created glass, steel, aluminum (rivet) sandwich. The lower side was shot with green dichromate paint to prevent air/salt water from getting to the steel/aluminum interface, creating a galvanic 'battery' and causing aluminum oxide to migrate forming 'bumps' across the nose between the headlight buckets and the hood. This is a super opportunity to drop the wiring harness and vac lines, sand blast the bottom side of this plate and lay down a fresh coat of protective paint to keep baby fresh/safe for another 30 years!!!

            Comment

            • Roberto L.
              Expired
              • January 1, 1998
              • 523

              #7
              Re: Engine compartment work while engine is out

              On hoses I followed Jack's advices about cleaning the hoses with the famous 40 and they ended very good, as new, save for some color lines fading. Honestly there is no much to fail in vac hoses, just the ends that deform and will need a little trim. Give it a try. Roberto, NCRS #30019, RMC

              Comment

              • Ron AKA 71LS5

                #8
                Re: Engine compartment work while engine is out

                Ok I will give it a shot, gee I used to use WD40 for this purpose years ago until someone said it will eventually break down the rubber. I used pure silicone spray but it costs way more and does not clean nearly as well.

                Thanks again with helping control my adiction

                Comment

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