C2:67 New project: 67 alternator

[Gerard F.]

Thanks to all who responded to my post on converting a 37 amp alternator to a 61 amp alternator. Guess I've got a new project after losing 33 points on a generic alternator.

Rumaged through the boxes in the gargage, and I found it. My original 37 amp alternator, 1100693, date code 7F16:

I think I took this alternator off some 20 years ago. I also found my tattered overhaul manual which has a chapter on overhauling the Delcotron.

Object now is to take a 61 amp replacement and take the internals out of it, and convert the 37 amp original to a 61 amp alternator. Here they are side by side:


The exteriors look just about identical.

I'll also be doing some necessary refinishing on the alternator, here's the before condition:

It has combined pulley fan with the number 3809815AJ

The diodes I could read are dated between 7E16 to 7E19

So here we go on a new project.

Having fun,

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Richard S.]

Re: C2:67 New project: 67 alternator

Jerry,

Joe Lupo did a great article in KEEPIN TRACK magazine February 1990 issue. It's a complete reduild guide with good pictures and itemized parts identification. Let me know if you can't find the article and I'll fax it to you. Good luck with the project.

[kelly theaker]

Re: C2:67 New project: 67 alternator

Rick, i could use the article if not too much trouble , thanks in advance.

[Jim T.]

Re: C2:67 New project: 67 alternator

Jerry the only problem I have encountered with rebuilding alternators at home is not having an impact tool to remove the nut on the front. Older alternators like yours are not as difficult as the later models in my experience. Last one I did was on my 85 Corvette. Took the alternator off and took it to my Goodyear store and they used their impact tool for a quick removal of the nut. The front bearing was siezed to the shaft and had to take it to a professional who had a heck of a time separating the bearing from the shaft.

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2:67 New project: 67 alternator

Jim,

I got the nut off last night but what a bear. Soaked the nut and shaft in rust penetrant for about 15 minutes. Put the alternater in a vise and used a 15/16" box wrench and 5/16" allen wrench. Arranged it in the vise so that the allen wrench handle was bearing against the vise.

I tapped on the box wrench with a hammer in both directions. and then put my full weight on the nut to loosen a number of times. About the time I was ready to give up and put a propane torch to it, it finally gave.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Terry M.]

Re: C2:67 New project: 67 alternator

Jerry,

The method you used (clamping the allen wrench in the vise) is the correct, although more difficult, one. An impact runs the risk of twisting off one or more of the connections in the rotor. That said, I suspect most folks who have an impact tool available to them will use it.

[Jon #40768]

Re: C2:67 New project: 67 alternator

I would also love a copy faxed to (925) 449-1690. If you put your address on the fax I will also send a couple of bucks to cover the call.

Thank you
Jon

[Gerard F.]

Is there a trick

to holding the brushes in place when I reinstall the rotor. Haven't tried it yet, just planning ahead. Any stories in the Restorer on alternator rebuild?

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Terry F.]

Re: Is there a trick

There is a little hole behind the brushes in the housing as I recall. YOu insert a stiff wire (paper clip) though the housing after retracting the brushes as far as they will go. Once you put it back together, remove the wire and they will snap into position. Terry

[Barbara S.]

Good luck Jerry! *NM*

[Joe L.]

Re: C2:67 New project: 67 alternator

Jerry-----

Basically, if the rebuilt unit is nearly new, all you need to do is to remove the drive end case half from your original alternator (this is the case half with "numbers" and "dates"), restore the finish, transfer the drive end bearing from the case half on the rebuilt unit to the original, and install the drive end case on the rebuilt alternator. The split ring case half (rear) looks to be identical to your original (as I would expect) and it's already "restored".

[Gerard F.]

That's too easy, Joe

You know engineers will be engineers. I want to use the original case and the original diodes (if they are good). By the time I finish this project, I want to know exactly what the difference is between a 37A alternator and a 61A alternator. I suspect that is in the windings of the stator, although it could be in the rotor or the diodes. Would the diodes make any difference?

Actually the rear half of the rebuilt one looks like it was re-skinned or bead blasted.

I think I'll try the rigorous course first, and if that fails, I'll go the easy way.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Joe L.]

Re: That's too easy, Joe

Jerry-----

Rotor, diodes, and all other internal parts (except stator) were the same for both 37 and 61 amp. The stator is the only difference,

[Terry M.]

There is a trick

Instead of a paper clip, use a tooth pick to keep the brushes retracted. The first time you forget and leave the paper clip in there and install the alternator you will know why new brushes come with a plastic holder in the holes, and why a tooth pick is better.
Back when we used to teach alternator and starter rebuilding in school we always taught the students to use tooth picks. Trust me wood or plastic is better.
I believe the FSM calls for a non-conductive brush retractor.

[Richard S.]

Re: C2:67 New project: 67 alternator

Jon,
No need to send money....I'm glad to help........