70 C3 engine Painting Questions

[Travis Williamson]

I am finally going to be getting around to painting my engine very soon and would like to poll you guys for some tips. The motor is out of the car so the job shouldn’t be too bad. I originally bought the POR-15 engine paint kit but after talking to a few folks I decided just to go with the chevy orange from quanta products.

Id like to know the best way to prep the engine. I have already degreased it, paint stripped it and removed as much rust as I can but there is still some surface rust. I was thinking I would use the "Metal Ready" from the POR-15 kit to take care of the remaining rust and to promote the adhesion. Im a little hesitant to use the metal-ready because it would require me to wet the engine again. I will if I need to, but Id rather not risk getting water in the motor (again doahh!!! Those valve covers seem to always leak).

Another alternative I thought about was first using a dirt, wax, grease remover then use that MarHyde One-step rust converter. Then prime and then paint.

What kind of primer would you recommend? I have some hi-temp grey primer for engines. Should I maybe use self-etching primer instead? I assumed since the block is a rough surface I really did not need to use a self etching primer.

As usual all your comments and opinions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Travis

[Terry F.]

Re: 70 C3 engine Painting Questions

Make sure the important parts are covered, then use a wire wheel brush on a drill to get the remaining rust off. I suspect if it is just the surface rust that you have after hot tanking, etc, it will not cause any problems.

Personally, I have not heard of using primer on an engine. I wouldn't do it....not that someone hasn't done it before though.

I like this stuff call "plastic coat" chevrolet orange. But, you need to make sure it is correct orange for your year. Works well, and goes on easy and dries fast. Holds up nicely and is the right color for me.

Wipe the engine down with laqure thinner really good. I use paper towels and sort of blot it on so that it runs off, taking the oil with it.

If you have gaskets coming loose it is from poor technique. Chase the bolt holes and blow them out with compressed air. Then clean them with laqure thinner and blow them out again and again to get the oil and grease out of them. They have to be bone dry or the oil and grease will allow the bolts to come loose and the oil/grease to work the sealer and gasket off. Can't tell I like laqure thinner can you!? If you get it bone dry and let the engine sit a couple days after assembly, it should not leak. If you put the engine together and start it up hoping the heat will dry the sealant, you will be dissapointed. Let the sealant dry on its own. The longer, the better. Scrape the gasket surfaces with a utillity razor blade. You want bare metal. I use paper towels. When the white paper towel comes back clean after rubbing the surface, it is clean enough and I move on to something else. You get the idea. Just my way of doing things. In cold weather, you need to let the engine sit and dry. You can put a space heater on it if you like. It gets a little cold in my garage. Don't blow yourself up though!

Later, Terry

[Chuck Caldwell]

Re: 70 C3 engine Painting Questions

Just had this same dilema on my restoration project (70 LT-1). I ended up using Eastman's Chevy Orange Engine paint kit, comes in a pint size and is a 2 part mix. Go's on great, flows/levels out well and is a very "tough" and hard finish....looks great and much better than anything I have ever used in a spray can....this works really well if you are not totally disassembling the engine either.

[Dick W.]

Re: 70 C3 engine Painting Questions

If you are going for originality, think thin. Chevrolet used very little paint on the engines, no primers. Expect to see paint absent behind the waterpump. Just enough to hide the bare cast iron, not to fill the rough surfaces

[Travis Williamson]

Re: 70 C3 engine Painting Questions

Thanks for the info everyone.