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I am inspecting a possible purchase of a '67 coupe, the car is sagging slightly in the rear on one side (kind of like an old girlfriend of mine) anyway, does anyone know what can be causing this and is it possibly serious (frame damage)? It is a slight difference, 1/2 inch or so, but noticeable if you examine it long enough.
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Re: sagging '67...Why?
Gary:
If you look carefully at your AIM, you will see that 3/8" side-to-side height difference is within build specifications for the car. Assuming that your tire pressures are all the same, and the car is sitting on a flat-and-level surface, then it is probably the fault of spring link bushings. A somewhat less likely explanation is a rear leaf which is slightly weaker (flatter) on one side, very likely the drivers' side.
Joe -
Re: sagging '67...Why?
Hi Gary Another thing to look at might be the front springs. On my 62 I had the same problem in the rear left side. Replaced the rear spings and it still sagged. Decided to replace the front and that did it. I reasoned, with the weak spring in the front(right side)it raised the left rear slightly. Good Luck DaleComment
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Re: sagging '67...Why?
What do the rear spring link cushions look like? When were they last changed? Are the link bolts correct and the same length side to side?
DukeComment
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Re: sagging '67...Why?
Gary,
These cars are not perfect. They never were and only some extreme restorations are close to being so.
A fiberglass body on a basically flat frame does nothing to remain rigid and flexes a lot. It is not uncommon to check a frame and find a swayback to the frame or any corner high or low. Unless it has been on a frame machine and straightened recently, 1/2 inch is easily the norm.
Also, as others have said, springs, shocks, bushings, adjustments all add up to where the ride heights can be off.
If you are really worried the frame was a pretzel once, and it sounds like you are looking for that history where the Amtrak hit it, then get the guy to run it into a frame alignment shop, toss it on the rack, and do a full alignment check. Odds are things will be off. They almost always are under that type of scrutiny.
However, this is NOT a big deal, unless it goes back to the Amtrak. And you can find that more easily by visual examination of the frame where it was clamped, bent, straightened, and so on. Just crawl under and look with a good flashlight or drop light.
It is easy to get hung up on the little things. Look at your '65. Is it perfect? Compare the two to see what is more normal.
You really need another person who knows these to be with you and keep your head on straight.
Yes, it is a lot of money, and probably a lot more than your '65 is worth, but the problem is that the '67 is now the high dollar car because it is perceived as the one to buy. So the guys with the bucks roll out and buy them. Guy’s like me are lucky to get a test ride today.
I've looked at several '67s and other high dollar cars for a buyer recently. It isn't without anxiety, because it is easy to overlook something that changes that $150,000 car to a $70,000. But simply put, if you can't stand up to this kind of pressure, then get out. Don't bother with the '67s because that is the pressure you will be under.
In today's market, $79,000 is on the low end. So the car has to have flaws to be at that price, or the owner just arrived back on Earth from vacationing on Saturn. Either way, the flaws are already figured in that price. A screw-up here may drop you to a $50,000 value, but it may only take $10,000 to rectify that and get it back in the $80,000 and up range. If you were in the $150,000 range, you could end up losing $75,000 with the blink of an eye, so you really are in the safest part of the '67 market.
You sound like you want a perfect car, one worthy of Bloomington Gold or Top Flight, so you have to either accept that such a car is in the $100,000 and up range or you go for the lower price and expect that things will be wrong that you have to fix.
But I really suspect that you have just hit a price range that is out of your league. That is reality. I’d like to find my ’67 coupe that was my first car. But I can’t sell my house to buy it if I did, so I don’t even look. You should really get someone to look at the car with you. And you really need to re-evaluate your finances. If you are going out on a limb for this ’67, then be prepared to fly or fall when the limb breaks.
The car below is $69k at ProTeam and has an NOM. A 390 hp like it with docs and original motor is $149k. Not a recommendation of ProTeam, just information so you know where you are on prices.
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Re: sagging '67...Why?
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the feedback. I guess I am trying to get a lock on the value of '67 big blocks and I am finding it difficult since they are all so different and you actually have to see a car to evaluate it. I see 390hp coupes that are selling near $79K and some have doc's to back it up. It sounds to me like you believe this car is a good deal.Comment
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Re: sagging '67...Why?
Not necessarily. You question the engine. So that may be against it. If the engine is not original, you can still Top Flight, but in the market, most seem to categorized engines into two classes - original and NOM.
They don't seem to understand "Correct", not in the big dollars anyway.
Then they will fool you such as at B-J Auctions.
The car is probably straight. It is probably a good deal with regards to today's market HOWEVER, I don't consider any of these '67s a good deal when you are thinking of spending the price of a house for one or more.
A good deal would be $40-$50,000.
It is just about impossible to evaluate one without seeing it.
About the only think I believe on this car is that you are in very nervous territory money-wise, and with that, your wisest course is probably to pass unless you can get second and third opinions from those who know these and who can see it.
Before you get too deep, ask yourself if you can afford to buy it at $80,000, and lose $30,000 on it if you have to sell in the next six months. Not that the market will collapse, but if you discover things wrong or would have to sell and can't get a buyer willing to overlook whatever has it at this price to start with, you could easily lose that much.
Or if you are willing to pay $80,000 and then drop another $10 or $20,000 in it to correct whatever may be wrong.
Basically, do you have $100,000 free money sitting around burning a hole in your pocket?
If you do, then first thing is to pay someone who is really good on 1967 big block coupes to look it over and give you a report. Maybe two. $100-$200 evaluation fee plus maybe an airplane ticket to get them there is cheap insurance on the price of a car in this price range. You'd pay that for a home inspection readily and the risk is much less on a house.
So your questions at this point should not be "is this car worth it?" but rather "who really knows these cars and is interested in looking at it for me?"
And also you probably should have posted several pictures here so we would see something. You'd be amazed at what some of these guys can see in a decent size picture.
If you have pictures, post a web site with them or put them up here and I bet you get a lot of input.
It was a lot easier to do when these were $5000 cars.Comment
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Mike is offering some excellent advice here.
But I might add that "now" isn't the time to jump in.... There is just too much emotionalism driving today's market.
Prices will go back down someday. It will happen when the "big time investment boys" get tired of messing with these cars, they will start dumping them and the price/market will return to the people who love them for what they are... fun cars to drive.
good luck,
tcComment
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Re: sagging '67...Why?
There is a good chance the bracket that is welded into the corner of the frame and supports the rear axle attaching cross member has broken on one side. This bracket is welded on 2 sides and with a Big Block it is possible the welds have yielded. I had a car with a nice frame that had the bracket separated from the frame. No big deal to replace, I think the bracket is reproduced.Comment
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Prices won't come down in our lifetime. *NM*
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Heard that in the 80's too... *NM*
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Re: Heard that in the 80's too...
Right up to around '90-'91, maybe?Comment
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