starting c1 body off - NCRS Discussion Boards

starting c1 body off

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Randy M.
    Expired
    • July 31, 1998
    • 38

    starting c1 body off

    I know there was an article in the Restorer some years ago but I can't seem to find it. Anybody have a wiring diagram for starting my 58 before I drop the body back on?

    Thanks,

    Randy
  • John O.
    Very Frequent User
    • May 31, 1998
    • 480

    #2
    Re: starting c1 body off

    If your doing a frame off restoration, I assume you bought an assembly manual. Well the wiring diagram is in there. If you did not get one, I would recommend you buy one. It's very helpful when putting the car together. You might even consider buying a new wiring harness from Lectric Limited..I did and they include the diagram.Very easy to do.

    Good luck.......John

    Comment

    • Randy M.
      Expired
      • July 31, 1998
      • 38

      #3
      Re: starting c1 body off

      John, Thanks for responding. I have a new harness but I would like to start the engine to check for leaks, etc. before dropping the body back on. So I don't want to hook up the entire harness just to do this, just something make-shift.

      Randy

      Comment

      • mike cobine

        #4
        Re: starting c1 body off

        The simplest wiring to make it run and be able to shut it off would be something like this:

        1. Wire from the Coil + to the resistor. Wire from the resistor to a ON-OFF switch. Wire from the On-OFF switch (SW1) to the battery +.

        2. Wire from the Coil + to the outside small terminal on the solenoid.

        3. Battery cable from battery + to the big terminal at top on the end of the solenoid.

        4. Wire from solenoid inside small terminal to a fast ON-OFF switch or push-type starter switch (SW2)(you want to be able to go off quickly). Wire from this switch to the battery +.

        5. Battery cable ground from battery - to the engine block, water pump, starter mounting bolt, exhaust bolt, or generator bracket.

        Be sure you have an oil gauge connected to the oil pressure opening near the distributor, or you will see oil spray everywhere. A mechanical gauge is suggested.

        Water temperature gauge is also good to have, and suggest a mechanical to simplify the installation.

        Push SW2 to crank the engine until oil pressure appears, maybe 15-20 psi. Stop cranking.

        Turn on SW1.

        Pump the accelerator, set the choke if needed by hand.

        Push SW2 again and start the engine.

        If you haven't done a cam break-in yet, follow the cam manufacturer's instructions or bring it to about 2000 RPM and hold for 20-30 minutes. Be sure to watch the water temperature and not let it get over 220. Use a portable electric fan in front of the radiator if needed. Be sure to watch the oil pressure. It should not fluctuate wildy and it should remain fairly constant.

        Check for leaks, adjust carb, and so one.

        Comment

        • John O.
          Very Frequent User
          • May 31, 1998
          • 480

          #5
          Re: starting c1 body off

          Hi Randy

          Do like I did. I took the original ignition switch and hooked wires to it with alligator clips on the other end. I connected them to the starter soleniod, coil,etc. My body was off too. I started my engine to check it out before putting body on. It's really easy to do.

          John

          Comment

          • John H.
            Beyond Control Poster
            • December 1, 1997
            • 16513

            #6
            Re: starting c1 body off

            Randy -

            I've done this many times over the years - I make up a temporary instrument panel out of 2x4's and strap it to the frame, mount the necessary components, and let it rip to break in the cam with everything out in the open. The photo below is of the pre-run of my tube-frame Grand Sport, and shows (left to right) the ballast resistor, coil, +12V junction block, ground junction block, and cluster with ignition switch, temp gauge, tach, and oil pressure gauge. The battery is sitting on the floor, the gas can is a temporary gas tank, and (not visible) is a large box fan in front of the radiator and aluminum flex dryer vent ducts clamped on the 4" open sidepipes leading out under the garage door (one more reason the neighbors were glad when I moved)




            Attached Files

            Comment

            Working...

            Debug Information

            Searching...Please wait.
            An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

            Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
            An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

            Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
            An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
            There are no results that meet this criteria.
            Search Result for "|||"