63 rear alignment shim placement

[David Z.]

I am presently working on a 63 (late) project car which came in pieces. The shims that came with it are the bar type which the bolt goes through and I have 6 of them. The shop manual says to place them back where they originally fitted. Unfortunalety the rear end was disassembled so I'm at a disadvatage as to where they originally went. Right now my rear tires are toeing end to the point where I can move the chassis because the tires hit end of the springs (the shims are not in place at this time). I can't adjust the struts far enough to allow me to roll the chassis. My questions are:

1. Is there a standard placement of the shims in relationship to the T arms?

2. If so, will this shim placement be good enough so that I will not have to disassemble it again for final alignment?

3. Is there a better shimming system that will allow me to place them in one time and move on? If so whre can I obtain the shims from?

Thanks for your input

[Stephen L.]

Re: 63 rear alignment shim placement

Place some shims in the trailing arm location to get to a point where you can freeely move the car. When your assy is completed and full weight is back on the car, have the entire car "4 wheel" aligned. You may want to purchase a set of shims so you have the correct parts to give to the alignment shop. Leave the trailing arm bolts loose for realignment. Make sure that you install the bolts as shown in the assy manual so they can be removed with the body on.

[mike cobine]

Re: 63 rear alignment shim placement

Steve hit upon a very good idea. Buy an extra set of the new style shims. This way you can align it at home or at a shop if you don't feel comfortable yourself. The new ones will slip in, so the bolt doesn't have to be removed each time you move a shim while finding the alignment.

Then when you are done aligning, take the slotted ones out, measure the same thickness on the originals, and install the originals one time.

As Steve said, bolt head to the inside, nut to the outside, or you won't get them out with the body on.

[Ken A.]

Re: 63 rear alignment shim placement

Another thing you may want to do. Drill a small hole through the tip of the bolt. (I assume it is the same as on my 69 which has a 'tit' on the end of the bolt) With the original type shims, everything has to line up to get the bolt through. Tie some fishing line or small wire through the hole so you can feed it through everthing. Then you can pull on the string/wire and pull the bolt through. Otherwise you will be fighting it for quite a while. One on Chevy's 'better' ideas. After about 70, they went to the slide on type of shim which makes the job a lot easier.

Ken

[Rob A.]

Re: 63 rear alignment shim placement

This method is used by shops that specialize in mid-year trailing arm rebuilding:

Start with one of the thickest shims on the inside, between the trailing arm and the frame opening.

Put a 9/16" socket between the bottom of the frame opening and the bottom of the trailing arm, and let it rest on it.

Place shims between the outside of the trailing arm and the outside of the frame opening, as necessary to have the rotor parallel to the frame.(you'll need a long board or level) Adjusting the shim(s) on the inside as necessary as well.

Not a substitute for an actual alignment, but usually close enough to not cause any problem with tire wear while you decide if, and/or when to have one done.

As already said, this is not as easy as it sounds with the original type shims with holes in each end.

[David Z.]

Re: 63 rear alignment shim placement

Could you recommend a source and part number for the new style shims? If you do not want to endorse a certain vendor on the board please email me with the info. Thanks. davezi@earthlink.net

[mike cobine]

Re: 63 rear alignment shim placement

I think you will find the stainless steel version of the slotted shims everywhere. I bought a set on eBay cheap. Some will also sell regular steel, which are cheaper, but most seem to concentrate on selling the stainless steel ones.

Eckler's, Mid America, Vette Brakes and Products, Corvete Central, Paragon, etc.