Need help!!

**Jim T.** · November 20, 2005, 03:02 PM

Re: Need help!!

Brandon since the engine is mounted on an engine stand, check you machine shops to see who has the equipment to remove the bolt using a process that escapes me right now, but it is a electrical discharge that destroys the bolt. Had something similiar happen to a water pump bolt using an easy-out to remove it. The words of the machine shop man, "should of brought it to me before you used the easy out. The engine was out of the car on a engine stand like yours. Lesson learned.

**Brandon Metzger** · November 20, 2005, 03:14 PM

Re: Need help!!

That sounds like a cool technique. My problem is it is a 454 long block. Moving this thing makes my stomack turn. On top of that I don't realy have a way to move it. with only 4 bolt, grade 8, holding up 800 pounds or so makes me nervous. These easy out things don't seem to easy to me.

B

**Travis Williamson** · November 20, 2005, 03:42 PM

Re: Need help!!

You could try a dremel tool and a grinding bit (aluminum oxide?) to grind it. Ive seen my buddy do it before but Im not sure what kind of bit he used. It took a long time but it worked.

good luck.

**Rob A.** · November 20, 2005, 03:42 PM

Re: Need help!!

B

If you find someone that seems confident they can help you, it might be worth asking him if he would come to you for an additional charge.

**Travis Williamson** · November 20, 2005, 03:56 PM

Re: Need help!!

I just took a quick look on the net and since the easy-out is hardned like you said the alumnim oxide probably wont work, see if you can find a solid carbide bit.

You may have to end up getting the machine shop to do it like Jim said.

**Bill Richards** · November 20, 2005, 04:12 PM

Re: Need help!!

Brandon
If you are lucky enough to have any of your broken easy-out sticking out above the surface of the block, you might try tapping on it with a small punch in the opposite direction than when it broke. It might free itself. If so, you can start over with a new easy-out, and this time heat up the broken bolt area with a propane torch. This will loosen the locking compound around the bolt. Also it helps to have drilled all the way through the broken bolt, being careful not to drill into the block. I have used this process on more than one motorcycle engine case, the difference being they are aluminum.
Bill

**Donald O.** · November 20, 2005, 05:11 PM

Re: Need help!!

If you have access to a welder, weld a large nut to the broken easy-out bit. Then while it is still hot put a wrench on it and it should come out fairly easily.
To make the repair almost invisible, after the easy out is out, drill out for the next larger bolt size and tap the threads. Cut the bolt head off your original bolt and off of the new larger bolt. Weld the original bolt head to the larger bolt threaded shank. Install it into the block with some lock tight and you should be good to go.

DonO

**Brandon Metzger** · November 20, 2005, 05:29 PM

Re: Need help!!

Thank you guys.

I think I am going to have to get a harder drill bit. My problem is neither the bolt or the easy out is sticking out. They are concave in respect to the block. I am looking at few options.

I think when I am don I will need to take DonO's advise and perhaps tap the threads larger.

All the best, thank you,
Brandon

**mike cobine** · November 20, 2005, 05:54 PM

Re: Need help!! - Wait!!!

Don't get a harder bit, you will just make a bigger wrong hole.

You won't drill through the Easy out with anything you have or can buy.

Heat is what is needed. And old trick is to take an arc welder, turn the juice up a bit, and zap it real quick. Cast iron and steel melt at two different temperatures and the steel bolt will melt and fall out first. However, as small as a pan bolt is, unless you are good with the welder, you may make more of a mess.

You can also stick the rod on the bolt and if you got it hot enough before sticking, the bolt will come out while attached to the rod. However, again, the small hole is against you.

Next trick is an Oxy-Acet torch. Melt the bolt and let it fall out.

Find a buddy with a van or pickup and take it to a machine shop. Sure, we all like to get it done today, but odds are you still won't and you will make enough mess, you will have LOTS of problems, AND STILL HAVE TO TAKE IT OUT TO BE FIXED!!!

As to oversize the hole and this welding bolt heads and stuff, two simple answers - No and Don't even think about it.

If you are good enough to weld heads on bolts, you are good enough to burn the old bolt out.

Two solutions if end up with the hole too big.
1. Slightly bigger, then drill for a helicoil insert.
2. Too big for a helicoil, then drill for a 3/8 bolt, tap, insert a bolt with Locktite, cut, and grind flush. Then drill the pan bolt size hole and tap to use an original pan bolt. There are also commercial inserts that you may be able to find instead.

Lastly, take those Easy outs and throw them as far as you can or drop them down a deep, deep hole. Easy outs are good ONLY if you snap a bolt in sheer. If you snap it in compression (bottomed out) or it is seized (rust or aluminum), then the Easy out will just break and make your day like today.

I own three, as part of some old drill bits I inherited. I will never buy one. I do use reverse drill bits, cut backwards to drill backwards and they are frequently successful. But an Easy out, forget it.

**Dick W.** · November 20, 2005, 07:05 PM

Re: Need help!!

Find you a shop with EDM (electrical discharge machining) and they can remove the bold and easyout for you without damaging anything.

**Clem Z.** · November 20, 2005, 08:18 PM

Re: Need help!!

the item has to be submerged in oil for the EDM to work and a asembled engine could be a problem.the ez out can be broken up into small pieces using a hammer and a punch. you will have to "dress" the punch a lot but i have removed broken ez outs this way.no i did not break them off i just got to remove them. the best type of ez out has a "shoulder" that only allows the ez out to screw in so far and this prevents the "wedging effect" of std type ez out that actually expand the bolt and makes it tighter.

**Frank C.** · November 20, 2005, 09:17 PM

Re: Need help!!

MIKE IS RIGHT ON !!! THROW THOSE EZ OUTS AWAY. I THINK IT WAS IN "VETTE VUES" WHERE I READ A COMMENT BY SOMEONE WHO ASKED WHY THEY WERE CALLED EZ OUTS BECAUSE THEY WEREN'T EASY AND THEY DIDN'T TAKE ANYTHING OUT. ANYWAY I HAVE REMOVED BROKEN BOLTS FROM CAST IRON BY HEATING THEM WITH MY SMALL ACETLENE TORCH UNTIL IT WAS MOLTEN AND THEN BLOW IT OUT WITH COMPRESSED AIR. I'VE HAD VERY GOOD LUCK, BUT BEWARE OF THE HOT STUFF.

**Chuck R.** · November 21, 2005, 09:39 AM

Re: I'm with Clem

Get a small ***** type punch and smack it. It will shatter probably a bit at at time depending on how deep you wound the e-z-out into the bolt. Safety glass and gloves are a must.

Of course you could focus torch heat at the bolt/e-z-out and blue it up, taking the temper out of the extractor where you THEN might be able to drill it out. Use nice sharp bits and plenty of cutting oil along with the safety glasses and gloves.

The fatal flaw is that too much meat is removed so that a thin wall situation is created on the movable item. Or worse, the threads are are nicked.

Then when the extractor is inserted into the hole, the lances of the e-z-out exert outward pressure forcing what's left of what you drilled out against the stationary item's threads making it bite even harded into the stationary item's threads creating a no win" situation where usually the extractor gives it up first by snapping off.

My (for the lack of a better word) "experienced" 68 components have tested both my tools and my patience to the limit.

Hope you can avoid the return trip to the machine shop Brandon.

Good luck,

Chuck

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