C2 - 7380 Fuel Injection Starting Problem

[Floyd #21606]

Guys, I need some help with my 65 7380 fuel injection. It will start but will only run for a few seconds and shut down like it is running out of fuel. The high pressure pump cable is not broken and the economy and power stops are set to the 65 shop manual factory specs. I have seen a little gas wetting on the fuel meter gasket which is above the float. I checked the float settings and it is at factory spec. I have never ran across this problem before, could the needle and seat be leaking? I appreciate any information on my problem.
Thanks
Floyd,
65 Fuelie

[G B.]

You're kinda scaring me.

Floyd, I don't mind giving you advice. But I think you're about to get into a repair over your head. I am NOT soliciting your business. There are a bunch of honest, knowledgible FI repairmen out there. You should find one and let him earn your trust.

A 7380 unit starts the engine with gasoline directly from the engine fuel pump. As soon as you let the ignition key pop back to RUN from START, the FI starting by-pass circuit shuts off and the fuel meter takes over. If the fuel meter can't supply the right amount of gas to the spider at this point for any reason, the engine will die in a few seconds.

So if you've got the choke / fast idle / enrichment lever stops / idle mixture properly set, and enough gas in the fuel bowl to cover the gear pump inlet, and the cable is spinning the gear pump, and the gear pump hasn't fallen apart, then the problem is downstream of the pump. The most likely culprit is then the anti-siphon "pill" valve in the fuel bowl. It can pop out of it's pressed-in fit and allow the gear pump output to go directly back into the bowl. The only way to determine if this is the problem is to remove the fuel meter cover and look.

Replacing this valve is relatively straight-forward IF you have the right part. I would not use the "old" reproduction with the steel internal ball. Repros are available now with the correct aluminum ball.

You said a couple of things in your post that make me think you may have other FI problems. But if you're a confirmed Do-It-Ur-Selfer, it's best to tackle one issue at a time.

[G B.]

First, don't take anything apart.

Make sure you've got enough juice going to the ignition coil when the key is in the RUN position. You can temporarily by-pass the ignition switch and wiring harness by running a jumper wire from the battery + terminal to the coil +.

[Floyd #21606]

Re: You're kinda scaring me.

Jerry, Thanks for your quick reply and I understand that you are not soliciting my business. I had this unit rebuilt by a "so-called" professional FI rebuilder several years ago (he used to live in Miami,Fl)and it took me over a year and 2 lawyers after he was paid just to get my rebuilt unit back. I had to go through the unit to tighten all the loose and leaking connections, after that it ran ok. Since that time and being an NCRS member I have found reputable rebuilders such as yourself and John DeGregory. Sorry for the long thread.

My question to you is where is the anti-siphon "pill" valve in the fuel bowl and it the same as the integral siphon breaker ball? If that isn't the problem then I will be sending my unit to be rebuilt. I don't want to get in over my head.
Thanks again.
Floyd
65 Fuelie

[G B.]

Send me an e-mail

I'll reply with a photo showing you the pressed in pill valve I'm talking about. My Top Secret e-mail address is jerrybramlett@comcast.net. My Even More Secret phone number is (251) 478-4003. I answer that line from 8 AM to 9 PM Central Time. Outside of those hours you will get a recording or a very mean old woman.

I'm sorry about your prior experience with a dishonest rebuilder. He sounds like a guy who is now in NY and still stealing parts. There are a couple of bad eggs who have given the FI repair business a poor reputation over the last twenty years, but the word is finally getting out on those guys. I think you should always talk to past customers before sending your unit to any rebuilder. And always ask the rebuilder how the unit will be calibrated and hot tested. It is IMPOSSIBLE to properly calibrate a unit without putting it on a running engine. And no, you can't set the stops based on vacuum readings.

I suggest you buy any reproduction parts you need from John DeGregory. He will treat you honestly.

[Floyd #21606]

Re: Send me an e-mail

Thanks Jerry, You are correct about the person in NY, he is the one.
I will check with you at a good time instead of getting the mean old woman.
LOL Thanks again.
Floyd
65 Fuelie

[Rick S.]

Queen of Mean

Heck, I'm married to the "Queen of Mean" and she doesn't answer the phone.